North America's Largest Artificial Lake Is A Remote Beauty With A Unique 'Dry Waterfall'
Sometimes you really need to get away from it all, and fortunately, there are still many destinations that can fulfill that desire. Canada's Newfoundland and Labrador is one such place. As one of the least densely populated provinces in the country, it's not hard to find peace and solitude within its natural splendors. While many visit to explore the area's awe-inspiring coastline or go whale watching, staying further inland reveals a truly remote beauty, complete with a "dry waterfall" worth seeing. That gem is the Smallwood Reservoir.
This artificial reservoir is Canada's largest, spanning 6,475 square kilometers (2,500 square miles). It also has a complicated origin story. Once the spot where hundreds of rivers and lakes could be found, including the basins of the Lobstick, Michikamau, and Ossokmanuan Lakes, it was an area that the indigenous Innu people called home. But when it became clear the area had massive potential for producing hydroelectric power, it was flooded and turned into the massive reservoir it is today.
Today, those seeking a tranquil escape from everyday life can find refuge at Smallwood. Don't come expecting luxury cabins, spas, or other luxuries. This remote destination is for those who want to embrace the outdoors and all its beauty and discomfort. But if you don't mind toughing it out just a bit, it is well worth the experience.
Smallwood Reservoir: A hiking and fishing escape
There are many reasons why Canada should be on your travel bucket list, and the Smallwood Reservoir is one of them. Since its creation in the 1960s, the reservoir's remoteness has left it relatively undisturbed. For anglers, there's ample opportunity here to catch impressive salmon, whitefish, lake trout, and northern pike. But in order for visitors to do so, they'll need to follow local regulations stating they must obtain a non-resident angling license and also hire a guide or outfitter. Given how much wilderness surrounds the reservoir, it's a good idea to have someone experienced help you navigate the experience.
If fishing isn't your thing, there's also plenty of space in which to stretch your legs and get in a good hike. AllTrails reviewers recommend a few different hiking trails in the area around Churchill Falls. The Bowdoin Canyon Nature Trail is the most popular at just under 2 miles, with 88 feet of elevation gain. Reviewers say it's a well-maintained, moderate hike lasting no longer than an hour, offering views of Churchill River, the canyon, and the falls. Rabbit Run Trail, meanwhile, is an easy, dog- and kid-friendly hike, though past visitors say it may require good boots to navigate the rocky streams. The Loop du Loup is another trail, which runs for roughly 4 miles. Past hikers note that this one is more challenging in the summer because of rain and potential flooding, but it's well maintained in the winter for those who want to go cross-country skiing.
Speaking of Churchill Falls, consider a hike to them, as they are one of the reservoir's main attractions. Before the area was dammed, the Churchill River flowed in strong currents over these rocks. Now, the falls are a small trickle compared to what they once were, except when heavy snowmelt or rain brings them back to life.
Planning a vist to Smallwood Reservoir
Reaching Smallwood Reservoir takes a bit more effort than most destinations, but that's part of its charm. The closest major airport to the reservoir is Wabush Airport in the town of Wabush, two and a half hours west of Churchill Falls. Reservoir visitors can find affordable rooms at places like the Wabush Hotel, with rates around 175 Canadian dollars per night (at the time of writing).
Alternatively, you can fly into Goose Bay Airport via Air Canada or PAL Airlines. Here, you can find rooms at a few small hotels in the Happy Valley-Goose Bay area (three hours east of Churchill Falls), including Hotel North, starting at around C$200 per night. Or, if you're in a rush to see the reservoir as soon as you land, you can find connecting flights to Churchill Falls Airport, which is about as regional an airport as you'll find.
No matter where you land, you'll need to rent a vehicle for the journey ahead. Opt for an all-wheel-drive or 4-wheel-drive vehicle, as you'll be driving on the Trans-Labrador Highway, including sections of gravel road en route to Smallwood Reservoir. Finally, there are no official camping sites in the Churchill Falls area of the reservoir. Now that you know about the under-the-radar gem that is the Smallwood Reservoir, consider checking out some other incredible places around the world to visit before the word gets out.