Rick Steves Calls This Underrated Resort Town The 'Most Appealing' On Spain's Costa Del Sol
If you're searching for sun, sea, and sand, you're spoilt for choice along southern Spain's Costa del Sol. This region stretches across nearly 100 miles of coastline with the popular party town of Malaga at its core. The seemingly endless long sandy beaches, and more than 300 days of sunshine each year, make it one of the biggest tourist destinations in Spain. But if you want to avoid the bigger resort towns and prefer somewhere a little quieter, you'll relish the charm of the beautiful, undiscovered town of Nerja, situated on the easternmost tip of the Costa del Sol. This is Rick Steves' favorite beach town on Spain's southern coast, and he calls this picturesque former fishing village "the most appealing resort on the Costa del Sol". It remains relatively untouched compared to the concrete jungles of the larger resorts of Malaga, Marbella, and Torremolinos. Hence why it's the absolute best resort town on the coast of Spain.
Nerja, whose name comes from the Arabic word for "abundant spring", is also steeped in history. It has seen Roman settlements, survived civil war and a devastating earthquake, and is home to feats of engineering that can still be seen today. It remains largely unspoiled with nearby mountains and caves to explore, and a walkable old town that's perfect for an evening stroll through its cobbled streets and tapas bars. The easiest way to get there is to fly into Malaga and hire a car. Nerja is around 43 miles away, and having your own wheels will make it easier for you to explore and make the most of the surrounding region. If you'd rather travel by public transportation, you can also make the journey by train, which takes just under an hour.
Discovering more of Nerja's history
Life in Nerja began long before the Romans arrived. The nearby Nerja Caves show evidence of prehistoric activity dating back over 35,000 years. The many cave paintings and other archaeological remains can still be seen today. Discovered in 1959 by five local boys, the Nerja caves have become one of the town's top tourist attractions. When the caves first opened, there was music and celebrations, which marked the beginning of the Cueva de Nerja Music Festival, which still takes place each year in summer. Another beautiful structure to visit, although somewhat younger in comparison, is the El Salvador Church, which has the unique claim of being one of the only churches in the world with representations of all three archangels.
Further out in the countryside, there is also the Acueducto del Águila, a multi-tiered monument once used to supply water to the town's sugar cane plantations. It's now only used to water local farmland and serves as a stunning backdrop for endless photo opportunities. For the best view in town, the Balcón de Europa is the place to go. This circular viewing platform was once the site of a fortress built to keep out the French during the Spanish Civil War. From here, you'll have unmatched views over the coastline. It's ideally situated between two of the town's best beaches — Playa El Salón and Playa La Calahonda.
The best beaches in Nerja, Spain
Speaking of beaches, there's certainly no shortage of them around Nerja. Take your pick from the busy beaches in the middle of town to more remote shores. A favorite with both locals and tourists, Playa de Burriana, with its clear waters and fine sandy shores, has earned a Blue Flag. It has all the amenities you need, with restaurants, shops, and bars all close by. For a more activity-based beach, just a 10-minute drive out of town is Playa de Maro. It's the ideal place for water-based adventures where you can snorkel among the fish and corals or hire a kayak to explore nearby caves and waterfalls.
Playa El Salón is the long sandy beach to the right of the Balcón de Europa, where the calm waters make it especially popular with families. When you get a bit peckish, it's a short walk back into town to sample local cuisine at one of the many nearby restaurants. Being a former fishing village, it's no surprise that many of Nerja's menus include fresh seafood dishes, including Spain's national dish — paella. Follow Rick Steves' Spanish restaurant hack while digging into classics like espetos — sardine skewers cooked over an open fire — which is another typical dish from the Costa del Sol. On a hot day, try ajoblanco, a refreshing cold soup made from almonds and typical of Andalusia. To sample more of the region's culinary specialities, head further west along the coast for an incredible food tour of Marbella. Visitors can also look forward to spending some time browsing the shops in Nerja's old town, ideal for picking up handmade local products like traditional hand-painted ceramics to take home as a souvenir.