The Revival Of Oahu's Old Sugar Mill Is A Sweet Escape For Shoppers And Explorers

Even when the redevelopment of a historic structure begins with the best intentions, time has a way of chipping away at its authenticity. Case in point, Boston's Faneuil Hall Marketplace. When the circa 1742 site reopened in 1976 as a showcase for local craftsmen, artisans, and purveyors, it was hailed as a first-of-its-kind urban renewal project. The dilapidated buildings once earmarked for demolition met rave reviews, but almost 50 years later, it's lost its sheen. The presence of big brand chains have diluted its vintage charm. These days it's as likely Faneiul Hall will turn up on a list of tourist traps to avoid as get a good review on TripAdvisor.

Other commercial/industrial-to-retail renewal projects stay true to their roots. It's a significantly smaller scale redevelopment, but Waialua Sugar Mill on the Hawaiian island of Oahu is one of those projects. Established in 1865, the old sugar mill operated for more than a century. At its height, the mill produced more than 50,000 tons of sugar annually as a subsidiary of Dole Food Company, but rising costs and global competition forced its closure in 1996.

We can't pinpoint exactly when the first local retailer opened a shop in the abandoned sugar mill, but the transition from industrial to retail appears to have been more of a grassroots evolution than a planned redevelopment. Whatever its genesis, it works. It's a place locals love and tourists haven't quite discovered . Far from the madding crowd of Waikiki Beach — one of many beaches in Hawaii that hold a colorful secret — Waialua Sugar Mill is located on Oahu's North Shore, a great destination for an adventure-filled family vacation with easy access from Honolulu's Daniel K. Inouye International Airport (HNL).

While it's occupied today by local retailers, the structure itself remains true to its history as a working sugar mill with original wooden beams and red dirt walls. Wander the former plantation's grounds and you'll likely come across remnants of the past, but one of the most iconic and locally beloved landmarks — the old 38-foot-tall sugar mill smoke stack — was razed in 2023 due to safety concerns.

The North Shore Soap Factory, one of the first retail tenants to take up residence, is located in the sugar mill's former bagasse bin. The distinctive cone-shaped building once served as the mill's repository for bagasse, a pulp-like by-product of sugar production. The all-natural soap-making facility produces a signature line of bar soap, lotion, body wash, and essential oils. There's an on-site store, and 30-minute guided tours, by reservation, take place throughout the day.

Another local favorite at Waialua Sugar Mill is Bob's Coffee & Chocolate. The shop is known for serving coffee made from beans grown and processed on-site. The roster includes four roasts, each made from the same variety of bean using different roasting and fermenting techniques. And don't forget the chocolate. Owner Bob McLeod, a local coffee and chocolate enthusiast, offers tours that include an introduction to the production of Waialua Estate chocolate — samples of coffee and chocolate included. Need a palate cleanser? There's a shaved ice stand behind the mill. The complex also houses two art galleries, but they are hard to find. Look for an unremarkable office-like door and step into a world of paintings and handcrafted items by local artists. 

All told, the sugar mill is home to more than 30 businesses. Plan to visit on a Saturday to coincide with the weekly Farmers' Market. Open from 8:30AM to 12PM, the market on the grounds of the Waialua Sugar Mill features vendors selling everything from locally grown fruits and vegetables to jewelry, crafts, artisanal foods, and specialty items. The complex is about 30 miles northwest of Honolulu, so it's worth making a day of.

Nearby sites of interest include Haleiwa Town. Established in the late-19th century, the modern history of the town is indelibly linked to the sugar cane industry. Today, its historic plantation-style storefronts house one-of-a-kind shops and local restaurants. Measuring about 1.5 miles end to end, the walkable commercial district is a favorite shopping destination with courtyard restaurants, surf ships, art galleries, boutiques, and souvenir shops. The Waialua Sugar Mill is also convenient to trailheads for Kaʻena Point (a 2.5-mile moderate hike) and Keālia Trail (a 7.8-mile challenging hike).

Also on the North Shore, Mokule'ia Beach Park is a long, sandy beach with a shallow reef and views of Ka'ena Point. Average wind and wave conditions make it a good choice for snorkeling, surfing, and kiteboarding. More secluded, Polo Beach is a .5-mile-long beach with a laid-back vibe that's popular among the clothing-optional crowd. Another highlight on the North Shore, getting to Waimea Falls requires a short hike, but it's worth the effort. Park at the main entrance to Waimea Valley, a stop on an award-winning can't-miss tour of Oahu. It takes about 30 minutes to walk the .75-mile paved trail. Along the way, visit the botanical gardens and Kauhale, an ancient Hawaiian living site where resident artisans demonstrate traditional crafts.