This Unsung Icelandic Town Is A Beautiful, Crowd-Free Destination For Outdoor Enthusiasts

It's impossible to plan a trip to Iceland without running into reports of overtourism and huge crowds. Tourists are often encouraged to travel to Iceland's far-flung north or Westfjords to find some solitude. But many of us want or need to stay near the capital, whether it's because we're on a short trip or because we're looking to explore some of Reykjavík's many attractions. Thankfully, there's a solution. Mosfellsbær is a small town just outside of Reykjavík that sees few crowds and offers easy access to both urban life and the outdoors.

Mosfellsbær is nicknamed "the green town" because of its lush surroundings and numerous greenhouses. Many locals know it as the final resting place of Viking poet Egil Skallagrímsson, who is said to have been buried here with heaps of silver treasure, which people are still seeking to this day. It was also the home of Halldór Laxness, Iceland's Nobel-prize-winning writer, and his former residence is now a museum. However, for many overseas visitors, the best of Mosfellsbær lies outside of town, in the nature that surrounds it.

One must-do in Mosfellsbær is to go for a hike up Úlfarsfell, a modestly sized mountain that still affords visitors spectacular views. Because Úlfarsfell is just 970 feet high, most hikers can find a route to suit their ability. Once at the top, you'll be able to admire the views over Reykjavík, the much higher Mount Esja, the bay, and even the distant Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

On the other side of Mosfellsbær, a short walk leads out to Helgufoss, a pretty waterfall that gently cascades over tiered rocks. For those seeking more adventure, Mount Esja lies just to the north of Mosfellsbær. Several paths wind up the 3,000-foot-high mountain, and experienced climbers can even scramble their way to the top, though no climbing is required to enjoy most of the views.

To soak your weary muscles and have a classic Icelandic experience, drive around 30 minutes north of Mosfellsbær to the Hvammsvík Hot Springs. Steaming natural pools of soothing water overlook the chilly Atlantic Ocean at Whalefjord, and guests can enjoy a swim-up bar and a steam room. Entrance starts at around $65, and you can stay in the pools for as long as you like. As one Google reviewer writes, "Take the money you wanted to use at Blue Lagoon and come here instead." If a few hours aren't enough, the luxury accommodations on site all have picturesque views over the fjord, and guests have access to a private hot spring.

Most people will get to Mosfellsbær from Reykjavík or directly from Iceland's main airport, Keflavík. Mosfellsbær is just a 15-minute drive from the city and 45 minutes from the airport, which lies to the south. Buses run from the airport to Reykjavík center, and then you can catch a local bus to Mosfellsbær, but this takes much longer than driving. We strongly recommend hiring a car in Iceland; it's the perfect country for road trips. 

There are few lodging options in the center of Mosfellsbær. Hotel Laxnes is simple but has good reviews and offers rooms for under $200 per night for two adults, which is quite a bargain in Iceland! To save even more, follow Rick Steves' tips to explore Iceland on a budget and consider camping. Mosskógar campsite is a five-minute drive from Mosfellsbær and costs around $20 per person per night. 

Mosfellsbær is a wonderful destination to visit year-round and is rarely crowded. To make the most of the outdoors, visit between June and August, when there's plenty of daylight and temperatures are warmer (though you'll never describe Iceland as balmy!). While winter in Iceland sounds intense, it's a lot milder than you might expect; temperatures around the capital average 31 degrees Fahrenheit in January, and this is when you might catch the aurora borealis. However, if you want to avoid crowds in Iceland, visit in the off-season, from mid-October to mid-May.