Forget Cape Cod – New England's Less-Crowded Gem Offers Scenic Boating & Quiet Beaches

Heading "down the Cape," as locals call the tourist-clogged journey to Cape Cod, is popular for good reason — wide-open beaches, charming architecture, and sailing galore. But there's a way to sidestep the traffic and the well-trodden path while still enjoying a day on — or in — the water. Marblehead, Massachusetts, just 20 miles north of Boston, boasts several small, quiet beaches and a beautiful harbor perfect for boating.

There are six yacht clubs in Marblehead, which may seem excessive for a town with a population of around 20,000 people, but insiders know you can join a yacht club even if you don't have a boat. The clubs surround a spectacular harbor that has been a draw for boaters for centuries. In fact, Marblehead calls itself the birthplace of the U.S. Navy because George Washington is reported to have commissioned residents to arm and sail the first boat to battle the British Navy during the American Revolution. 

The best place to get an idea of what makes the harbor so special is at Fort Sewall, which has been protecting the inlet since 1644. The fort sits in a park with 360-degree views of the mouth of the harbor and the thousands of boats bobbing in the water during the busy summer season. To explore the harbor and the ocean beyond, visitors can rent a boat, take sailing lessons, or enjoy a public cruise. For those who prefer to be in the water instead of on the water, the town has several small beaches. Families gravitate to Devereaux Beach, which has a playground, kayak rentals, and a seasonal snack shack. Arrive early on summer weekends, as the municipal lot can fill up by mid-morning.

If you keep an eye on the tides, or you have a boat, you can escape to Crowninshield Island. This quiet 5-acre outcropping boasts a loop trail and plenty of opportunities for birdwatching and searching tide pools. It is a short walk on damp sand from shore, but that passage vanishes when the tide comes in, so be sure to plan accordingly. During the summer season, rent paddleboards or kayaks to launch from the neighborhood beaches like Grace Oliver and Fort Beach, where fishers still moor small boats.

The town also boasts a number of secret passageways — public rights of way that have been used for centuries to enable residents direct access to the water. These are especially useful for reaching the shore on Marblehead Neck, where multimillion-dollar homes dominate the landscape but paths like Desmolin Lane and Castle Rock lead to hidden beaches.

Marblehead Neck is also home to Marblehead Light Tower, a 105-foot-tall cast-iron structure in Chandler Hovey Park. Built in 1896 to replace a shorter lighthouse obscured by area development, it is the only iron skeleton tower remaining in New England.

Marblehead still has an active community of people who make their living on the water, and the town is rife with harborside places to enjoy lobster and other locally caught delicacies. Options include the casual shanty Little Harbor Lobster Co., The Barnacle, which opened in 1947, and upscale dining at The Landing.

The town was settled in 1629, so historic architecture abounds, along with some surprising works of art. Abbott Hall, a Romanesque building on the National Register of Historic Places, houses town government offices, and displays the original "The Spirit of 76" painting by Archibald M. Willard, depicting fife and drum communication during the Revolutionary War. The hall also has a copy of the iconic painting "Washington Crossing the Delaware," as well as a maritime museum and gift shop.

While Marblehead, which lies on a rocky peninsula, is best accessed by car, leave it parked to experience the shops and historic homes lining narrow winding streets surrounding Front Street, one of the most breathtaking streets in America.

Interested in exploring the region further? Marblehead is next-door to the witchy attractions of Salem.