This Charming Town Is Tucked Inside One Of The UK's Most Beautiful National Parks
If you're used to the vast open landscapes of North America's national parks, those in the U.K. can appear rather small in comparison — even Cairngorms, the largest British national park. That doesn't make them any less beautiful, and South Downs National Park in the south of England is no exception. Its rolling hills covered with heaths that turn purple in late summer and wildflower-strewn grasslands divided by lines of ancient hedgerows resemble the patchwork quilts your grandmother used to make. In the heart of it all, one town in particular stands out for its timeless storybook charm and fascinating links to the past.
Midhurst in West Sussex is indeed the classic English market town. Sitting on the River Rother, its streets are lined with timber-framed buildings, many dating back to the 16th century. Ancient ruins and woodlands filled with bluebells in the spring surround the town, as the ridges of the South Downs rise up in the background. Exploring is a must, and luckily, there are dozens of walking trails to see you on your way.
Located around 12 miles north of Chichester and roughly 20 miles from the English Channel, Midhurst is about 55 miles southwest of London. If you're driving from there, be prepared to sit in jams, the traffic coming out of London is a nightmare. There's no railway station in Midhurst, but the train will take you as far as Chichester, from where there are bus connections into town.
How to make the most of a day in Midhurst
You could easily spend a full day in Midhurst, wandering in and out of its stylish independent shops housed within a melange of Tudor, Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian buildings. Fitting right in is J E Allnut & Son, a supplier of antique clocks and jewellery run by expert horologist Geoff Allnut. Wheelers Bookshop is a book lover's dream and somewhere you can easily pass a rainy afternoon, snuggled up in a cozy armchair with your favorite novel. Then onto Gartons Coffee House for an oat milk hot chocolate is the icing on the cake.
Speaking of cozy, nothing beats the welcome glow and friendly hum drifting out from a typical British pub. And like most English towns, Midhurst has its fair share of them. The Bricklayers Arms is particularly appealing, serving up a wicked Sunday roast and local ales. To extend your stay beyond a day trip, try the Spread Eagle, a 15th-century coaching inn once said to have hosted Queen Elizabeth I herself.
Much like Dartmoor, another English national park, South Downs is steeped in history, and in Midhurst the past whispers from every corner. History fans will love the ruins of Cowdray House. Once one of the most important Tudor homes of the Catholic aristocracy, both Henry VIII and Elizabeth I visited in its heyday. But perhaps the most fascinating connection is that of Guy Fawkes, who was once a footman here before his attempt to blow up the houses of parliament. It's the final stop on the self-guided Midhurst Heritage Trail, a 1.8-mile walk full of ghostly tales. It also includes a visit to Capron House, where H.G. Wells once went to school, and the remains of Midhurst Castle on St Ann's Hill, an Iron Age fort overlooking Cowdray Park Polo Club — Midhurst is also the home of British polo.
Exploring South Downs National Park
The South Downs became a National Park in 2010 and is the newest of the U.K.'s national parks. Visiting is more about immersing yourself in the English countryside and enjoying the views than ticking off landmarks. An outdoor haven for hikers, cyclists, horse riders, and birdwatchers, more than 2,000 miles of rights of way traverse its river valleys, ancient woodlands, and coastlines, all of which can be experienced on the South Downs Way.
One of 15 national trails in the U.K., the 100-mile trail is the only one entirely within a national park and runs from Winchester Cathedral in the west to Eastbourne Beach on the southeast coast. It passes through or by five national nature reserves and has some of the best views in the south of England. Midhurst is a great base for accessing the trail, only around 3 miles away at Cocking. Follow this advice to make your hiking adventure way more enjoyable. Cyclists and horse riders too can enjoy the South Downs Way, as well as other tracks and old railway lines running through the park.
The nearest nature reserve to Midhurst is around 5 miles away at Levin Down. The protected chalk grasslands are particularly pretty in spring time, when the slopes are covered with wildflowers, attracting butterflies and birds including red kites, buzzards, yellowhammers, and skylarks. The 65-mile Serpent Trail is another option and introduces you to a different kind of landscape over sandy tracks and lowland heath. Part of the trail passes close to Midhurst at Iping and Steading Commons, where you're more likely to see Dartford warblers and stonechats, as well as adders and lizards.