Escape Puerto Vallarta Crowds To Enjoy Quiet Luxury On Mexico's 'Happy Coast' With My 3-Day Itinerary

Driving south out of Puerto Vallarta, sprawling tourist resorts quickly become cobbled streets and bougainvillea-covered balconies, before giving way to a jungle-framed highway flanked by soaring mountains and the Pacific. While Puerto Vallarta itself has a mini-Cancún vibe, as soon as you get out of town, the contrast to the better-known Riviera Maya is stark. The road hits Boca de Tomatlan and veers off to the left, leaving the sea behind, but the coast continues, sweeping off around towards Yelapa, the first stretch of Mexico's magical Costalegre, the Happy Coast. 

I lived in Mexico for five years, and I was lucky enough to spend time in some of the most beautiful places the country has to offer. But the combination of natural beauty, remoteness, and stunning luxury makes the Jalisco coast from Puerto Vallarta to Manzanillo stand out. I wanted to create a guide to this gorgeous corner of the world for travelers flying to Puerto Vallarta Airport (PVR). You can do this itinerary for around $600 per day, depending on where you want to stay, with significant savings available if you travel out of peak season, between June and September. 

One of the biggest draws of the region is its collection of stunning hotels and resorts. If you've always dreamed of living out your "White Lotus" fantasy (without the gruesome murders), then this is the place. Las Alamandas offers a luxurious, secluded getaway, and its guestbook is filled with names like Aniston, De Niro, and Vanderpump. Verana, the "handmade hotel" in Yelapa, combines hippie-chic with genuine eco-credentials, accessible only by boat, with mules to carry your luggage. And no guide to the Costalegre would be complete without mentioning Careyes, the bohemian resort community that first put the region on the map.

Budget travelers to the Costalegre often head south, to the vibrant towns of Barra Navidad and Melaque. But those who want to immerse themselves in the quiet luxury of the region usually stick to the northern half of the coast, from Boca de Tomatlan to Chalacatepec, Perula, and Careyes.

Morning: Your stay on the Happy Coast begins with a boat ride from Boca de Tomatlan, taking you on a charming excursion exploring some of Mexico's lesser-known beaches and hidden bays. If you visit between December and March, it's almost impossible not to see whales frolicking in the sea around you, and your boat will likely attract curious dolphins as well. Stop at a sleepy fishing village like Yelapa or Los Corrales for a laid-back lunch, or ask your hotel to pack a boutique picnic for a romantic bite to eat on a deserted beach like Playa Tabo. 

Afternoon: Now, it's time to head to your hotel and decompress. If you are staying in Verana, this means a boat ride and a mule trip, while if you are staying further south, in Las Alamadas, Xala, Four Seasons Tamarindo, or Careyes, you'll need a car (and probably a driver). Don't miss a stop at the Vallarta Botanical Gardens in Cabo Corrientes before heading down the coast. Once you've arrived, spend the afternoon enjoying the peace, quiet, and gorgeous natural beauty of your chosen property, whether that's a horseback tour of Las Alamandas, a guided waterfall hike at Verana, or even a polo match at Careyes!

Evening: Once night falls, enjoy cocktails with an ocean view before a candlelight supper by the beach. Las Alamandas boasts a fabulous, farm-to-table restaurant that leans heavily on traditional Mexican cuisine, while Verana's restaurant has extraordinarily enviable views out over the bay from its elevated terrace.

Morning: Luxury in other parts of Mexico usually means extravagance, gaudiness, or even tackiness at times. But the Costalegre is a celebration of privacy, simplicity, and natural beauty. With this in mind, it is worth making an early start to your second day, getting up before the sun and taking a 20-minute boat ride from Punta Perula to Isla Cocinas, a gorgeous nature reserve in the bay between Perula and Chamela. Watching light spread lazily across volcanic rock formations, like molten honey, as the sun rises on a deserted beach is an extraordinary experience. Isla Cocinas at dawn also offers the opportunity to spot rare birds that nest on the island.

Perula is a delightful spot for brunch, with an exquisite stretch of golden sand. If you are in the mood for authenticity, the beach is fringed with several excellent, casual restaurants, but for something a little more luxe, the Texali bistro in the Casa Tilmacalli boutique hotel is a superb choice. 

Afternoon: After brunch, it's time to leave the beach behind and discover one of Jalisco's lesser-known traditions – raicilla. This fiery agave spirit is the secret cousin of tequila and mezcal, produced almost exclusively in the Costalegre region. Hacienda El Divisadero has been distilling this earthy, complex dram since 1885, and a private tour through the working distillery, followed by a tasting session, is a real treat.

Evening: In the late afternoon, head back to the coast to check in at the delightful resort of Las Rosadas, one of Condé Nast Traveler's 50 Quietest Places in the World. Lounge the afternoon away on the pristine beach covered in soft-pink seashells, enjoy a dip in the pool and a cocktail under the shade of a palapa, before a meal of seasonal, coastal Mexican cuisine on the terrace.

Morning: The Costa Careyes, towards the southern end of the Costalegre, is where its reputation for quiet luxury was born, home of the astonishing resorts of Careyes, Cuixmala, and the Four Seasons Tamarindo. Your third morning begins with a trip to the Cuixmala-Chamela biosphere reserve. With a guided wildlife tour, you'll see a plethora of local bird species, troupes of howler monkeys, and unexpected zebras. 

After a morning immersed in nature, it is time to discover Careyes, the European-inspired luxury beach getaway that put the Costalegre on the map. Lunch at the Playa Rosa Beach club on the sands of Careyes Cove, and explore the unique landscape and architecture of the resort, including the stunning Copa del Sol installation, the mystical Pyramideon tucked inside a cave a mile inland, and the Centro del Universo, found via a guided hike known as "Camino de la Vida".

Afternoon: In the afternoon, pure pampering is on the agenda. The spa at the Four Seasons Tamarindo is one of the highlights of the Jalisco coast when it comes to deluxe self-care, offering luxury massage treatments, facials, and the chance to try one of Mexico's most fascinating traditions, the temazcal. This pre-Hispanic ritual takes you into the "house of heat," a stone igloo warmed with glowing rocks, creating an immersive and transformative relaxation experience filled with sweat, singing, and a truly emotional connection to yourself.

Evening: For your final evening on the Costalegre, it's back to Careyes for sunset drinks overlooking the sea and the iconic pink villas of the resort at El Careyes Club & Residences, before sampling the best wood-fired pizzas in Jalisco at Lilo's Beach Club. Drink in the peace, quiet, and outstanding ocean views, and start planning your next trip to one of Mexico's most underrated destinations.