Canada's Abandoned Island Is Now A Thriving Destination With A Scenic Hiking Loop

McNabs Island is at the entrance to Halifax Harbour in Nova Scotia, Canada. It ranks as the largest island in the harbor and forms part of McNabs and Lawlor Islands Provincial Park. It covers about 1,000 acres and is just a short boat ride from either Halifax or Eastern Passage.

The island is home to a layered history. It was first a fishing base before British settlement in 1749. In 1782, Scottish settler Peter McNab purchased the island, and his family resided there for about 150 years. During the 1860s, the British military purchased portions of the island to build defensive batteries, like Ives Point Battery, Fort McNab, and Hugonin Battery. These locations were used to protect the harbor during World Wars I and II. Today, these settlements and military structures lay abandoned, with less than 1% of the island privately owned and instead is largely maintained by the province of Nova Scotia. Once known for its military use, which has since been vacated, this parkland now has no residents and instead features 11 miles of hiking trails, including a scenic loop, serving as a thriving destination for history enthusiasts and nature lovers.

To reach the island, visitors can rent a private boat, water taxi, or charter services departing from either Halifax or Eastern Passage, which takes 30 minutes or less. Out-of-towners should fly into Halifax Stanfield International Airport, which serves as the primary air hub for the area. Summer brings peak tourism ideal for swimming and enjoying the water, and fall offers incredible fall foliage and comfortable hiking temperatures. No matter the season, Canada offers wonderful hiking opportunities, hidden gems, and adventures.

Fort McNab National Historic Site is one of the island's best attractions. It was constructed in the 1880s and once served to protect the entire Halifax Harbor. The fort fought back against enemy warships that were trying to bombard Halifax Harbor. Today, visitors can wander the preserved structures with sweeping Canadian coastline views, like those at Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Don't miss the largest gun ever mounted in Halifax, a massive 10-inch breech-loading gun still pointed seaward. 

The Hugonin-Perrin Victorian Gardens are beautiful in their own right, featuring Japanese maple, horse chestnut, and copper beech trees that create the perfect dappled sunlight. Visitors will find a distinct stone teahouse within the gardens that resembles a Scottish crofter's cottage. Overlooking the harbor, the teahouse now functions as the perfect place to stop and rest, as well as an educational center, thanks to the Friends of McNabs Island Society. 

Ives Point Battery, or Fort Ives, is the oldest surviving fort on the island showcasing earlier British defensive technology. Its stone walls are covered in the local foliage and plant life, creating a beautiful scene. Nearby historic homes, like the Davis-Conrad and Mathew Lynch houses, provide a window into the lives of those who once lived here.

McNabs Island offers more than 11 miles of hiking trails that wind through the densely wooded space, through the meadows, and along the beach. Much of the island still remains heavily wooded, which lends an untouched feel to these historic grounds. The trails connect historical sites, old homesteads, and coastal viewpoints, creating a wonderful way to explore the island. 

The McNabs Island Loop is a 5.2-mile easy trail, taking about 2 to 2.5 hours to complete, that winds through most of the island. It provides an accessible way to see most of the iconic sites here. The loop brings visitors to sites like Ives Cove, Halifax Harbour, the Former Findlay's Picnic Grounds, Woolnough's Pleasure Grounds, and Hangman's Beach. "This is an absolute hidden gem because the entire hike is as secluded and deserted as backcountry," said AllTrails user Matt Hennigar. Along the way, hikers can detour to Wreck Cove, where low tide can reveal the remains of historic shipwrecks. Other trails peel off the loop to Maughers Beach, a curving stretch of white sand on the western side of the island that didn't exist 80 years ago. At the end of this stretch sits Maughers Beach Lighthouse, a place nearby where executed criminals were once hanged as a warning to those entering the harbor. 

Meander a bit further down the trail to encounter McNabs Pond, once a cove, later a tidal inlet, then a freshwater pond, and now a tidal estuary and stopover for migrating birds. Framed by the surrounding forest, the island is home to more than 200 bird species, making it a notable destination for birders. It is truly an underrated island perfect for outdoor destinations, like Prince Edward Island, or the gorgeous hike around Flowerpot Island.