Rick Steves Thinks This Humble German Town Is A Good Base For Hiking Near The Rhine

The River Rhine is one of the most historically and culturally important rivers in the world. Emerging in the mighty Alps in Switzerland, it flows north and west across a vast stretch of central Europe, crossing Liechtenstein, Austria, Germany, France, and the Netherlands, before emptying into the North Sea. Known as Father Rhine, it has defined European trade, politics, and geography for millennia and occupies a place at the heart of European history. The Rhine marked the northern border of the Roman Empire and runs through some of the oldest and most important cities in Europe.

This mighty watercourse captivates the imagination of almost everyone who explores its length, including European travel expert Rick Steves. He says, "There's a rhythm to the mighty river that merges with its environment: black slate cut from plains above, terraced vineyards zigzagging up hills, husks of ruined castles, and stoic spires of stone churches slicing vertically through townscapes." And while he loves the entirety of its 800-mile stretch, he is a particular fan of the 36-mile stretch from Mainz to Koblenz, which boasts picturesque castles and stunning landscapes, as well as some of the best hiking in Germany. Steves recommends the small, innocuous town of St. Goar as a wonderful base camp for exploring the delights of this epic corner of Germany.

St. Goar is located on the banks of the River Rhine in western Germany, about half an hour's drive from Koblenz and an hour from Mainz. The nearest international airport is Frankfurt-Hahn around 45 minutes away, which is served by routes from across Europe. The larger Frankfurt Airport is about an hour away, with direct flights from across North America and around the world.

Rick Steves describes St. Goar as "a classic Rhine tourist town [with a] hulk of a castle [that] overlooks a half-timbered shopping street and leafy riverside park, busy with sightseeing ships and contented strollers." The town is dominated by two key features: the magnificent Rheinfels Castle and the remarkable Loreley, a unique geological feature that plays a huge role in German myth and legend. And while Steves describes the town as not "much more than a few hotels and restaurants," there's actually plenty to see here before you set off to explore the surrounding countryside.

Rhenifels Castle is a great place to start, one of the most romantic ruins on the banks of the Rhine and a must-see castle on any visit to Germany. Built in the 13th century, it gave the Counts of Katzenelnbogen control over the region and allowed them to tax traffic along the river. It was one of the few castles that survived the Thirty Years' War and the War of the Palatine Succession and remained an imposing fortress until it was blown up by French revolutionary troops in 1797. 

The rest of the town offers several charming experiences. The German Dolls and Bears Museum is a quaint delight, particularly for families, with an amazing collection of dolls, soft toys, and puppets. It is worth checking out the largest free-hanging cuckoo clock in the world, which hangs outside a small souvenir shop in the old town, as well as the exquisite miniature railway, which takes tourists from the main market square all the way up to the ruins of Rheinfels Castle. Finally, St. Goar is an excellent place to start a boat tour of the Rhine River gorge.

Hiking the Rhine River Gorge is one of the best things you can do in this part of the world and one of the best ways to take in the scenic beauty of Germany. From St. Goar, this starts with a scramble up the Loreley, just across the river. This 433-foot steep slate rock looms over the town and features in a number of German myths and legends due to its status as an infamous disaster site. Various shipwrecks and drownings are attributed to ethereal mermaids, seductive sirens, and mischievous dwarves.

Beyond the Loreley, St. Goar sits on the wonderful RheinBurgenWeg, the Rhine Castle Trail, a fabulous hiking route that stretches 125 miles from Rolandsboden to Bingen. From St. Goar, the 4th stage of this epic through-route takes you just over five miles along the river to Oberwesel in around three hours. The route passes through picturesque vineyards, colorful rape fields, lush green forests, and along wide-open plateaus, offering excellent views of the Loreley Rock and Burg Katz, another spectacular Rheinish castle.