Rick Steves Says This Greek District Offers A 'More Intimate Athens' For Tourists

Athens is a city with an incredible story. Sitting at the crossroads of past and present, it is one of the oldest cities in the world, the birthplace of European civilization, and the home of Western philosophy, democracy, art, science, and architecture. It is an extraordinary place with some of the most impressive and complete ancient ruins in the world, as well as a vibrant and exciting modern culture that makes it a tremendously attractive vacation destination and one of the best destinations for exploring Greece's ancient ruins.

As a city, Athens has had its ups and downs. Once the center of the ancient world, it fell from grace throughout much of modern history. According to European travel expert Rick Steves, by the early 19th century, "Athens was just a small town surrounded by big ruins, sitting on lots of history." These days, Athens is thriving, with around 3 million residents and 10 million annual visitors. But the city can feel busy, chaotic, and overcrowded, with far too much traffic and not enough authentic charm. Luckily, you don't have to go far to rediscover a more traditional, relaxed version of the city. Rick Steves recommends the district of Plaka, which "provides tourists with a more intimate Athens."

Plaka is a small, historic district of Athens, situated in the center of the city, almost in the shadow of the ancient ruins and temples of the Acropolis. Its central location makes it very easy to get to from most spots in the city, and its narrow cobblestone streets are extremely walkable. Most tourists arrive in Athens at Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport (AIA), the city's main transport hub. It is about 45 minutes by car from Plaka, or a similar time by metro, which goes straight to Monastiraki Station.

Considering how central Plaka is, it is a wonder that it has remained quite so unspoiled for all these years. Known as the Neighborhood of the Gods, it embraces the majestic Acropolis Hill from Filomousson Square down to Monastiraki. The best way to enjoy this gorgeous little village right in the middle of Athens' bustling chaos is just to stroll through its winding alleys and streets, without too much of a plan. You'll catch glimpses of the magnificent ancient marvels over roofs and between houses, but most of all, you'll soak up the peaceful, traditional Athenian atmosphere that transports you back in time. 

Rick Steves recommends a "hike to the top of the Plaka to explore the charming 'village' of Anafiotika," a tiny district within a district that was originally home to workers from the small island of Anafi. This cozy little corner still feels like one of those classic whitewashed villages perched on a cliff on a picturesque Greek island, and is a truly delightful place to explore, as well as offering some of the best views of the city's famous landmarks. 

As one of the oldest areas of Athens, Plaka is filled with historical sights and ancient artifacts. While most visitors are swept away by the towering glory of the Acropolis, there are plenty of fascinating spots to discover in Plaka itself. For example, Agios Nikolaos Ragavas is a stunning 9th-century Byzantine church, built on the ruins of an ancient temple, and filled with faded yet incredibly beautiful wall paintings. It is also worth exploring the Benizelos Mansion, the oldest surviving house in Athens, for an alternative perspective on the history of the city from the famous neoclassical vision of temples, columns, and statues.

Rick Steves describes Plaka as Athens, but with "no chaotic traffic, lots of colorful restaurants, and the best souvenir shopping in all of Greece". Anyone planning a getaway to Athens should consider a visit, and it is certainly a fantastic spot to pick up mementos and gifts for the folks back home, with every street lined with stores selling jewelry, antiques, and knick-knacks. There's plenty of tourist tat to wade through, but enough gems and treasures to make a day of souvenir shopping exceedingly worthwhile. Of particular interest are the delicate wood carvings, the atmospheric religious icons and paintings, and the vintage taverna signs, ideal for adding a little retro flair to your home decor.

Plaka is also a wonderful place to eat, with loads of traditional Greek restaurants, cafes, and tavernas. Rick Steves recommends travelers "drop by a corner gyro and souvlaki stand...for a quick, inexpensive bite to eat," which is certainly one of the most affordable and best value-for-money ways to satisfy your cravings. But there are also plenty of more formal places to eat, like the Paradosiako Cafeneon on the corner of Voulis and Nikodimos Streets, or one of the many cafes, bars, and authentic, local-approved tavernas that line the edges of the Platia Filomenon Eterias, commonly referred to just as the "Platia."

Alongside great food and charming souvenirs, Plaka has some excellent museums and galleries that are worth spending some time in. The Frissiras Museum of Contemporary Greek and European Painting is a fantastic collection of contemporary art, housed in a wonderful 19th-century neoclassical building. Plaka's Jewish Museum offers a fascinating perspective on an often overlooked aspect of Athens' history, while the Museum of Greek Folk Art and the Folk Instruments Museum both shine a light on lesser-known parts of Greek culture.