This Challenging Hike Through Cloud-Covered French Mountains Offers Magnificent Views
Right in the heart of the French Pyrenees, close to the Spanish border, is a standout hike that leads up through mountainous terrain to the Pic de Madamète. Lunar-like ridges, sparkling lakes, and wildflower meadows await after a rigorous yet rewarding climb to the top. The 11-mile Lakes and Pic de Madamète Loop involves some tough, steep climbs over rocky slopes and loose scree, making it more suited to experienced hikers than beginners. But the stunning views from the majestic mountain summit, when the wisps of cloud clear, reveal a stark, sculpted, and peaceful landscape, making the effort more than worthwhile.
Pic de Madamète stands in the heart of the Néouvielle Natural Reserve, part of the Parc National des Pyrénées. It sits on the northern ridgeline alongside Pic dets Coubouts and is surrounded by 15 other named peaks and over 70 mountain lakes in the Néouvielle Massif. The trail itself is a lollipop loop starting near the small spa village of Barèges, winding past crystal clear lakes as you circle your way around the 8,717-foot summit and back. Barèges is around a 23-mile drive from the nearest major town of Lourdes, and the drive will take you through Pierrefitte before climbing steep, narrow, twisty roads into the depths of the mountains. No car, no problem; there are also direct bus services to and from Lourdes.
Following the trail to Pic de Madametes
Once you've arrived in Barèges, you'll find the large Tournaboup car park just two miles north of the village. Or you can take the free shuttle, which runs daily from 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Although officially classed as a day carpark, overnight stays are generally tolerated if you're staying in the mountains.
The trail starts at the Pont de la Gaubie and follows in part the GR10, one of the most breathtaking long-distance hiking trails in France, stretching right across the Pyrenees. It's well marked and rises through the valley towards the Refuge d'Aygues-Cluses, where you can stay overnight from around $29, although advance booking is required for one of the 35 dormitory beds. There are other designated camping spots along the trail near Cabane de la Pègue and Lac de Madamète, but within the reserve, only wild camping is allowed from sunset to sunrise.
Beyond the refuge, the route steepens, and you'll need to scramble over a lot of loose rock. The descent can also be tricky, but the path leading back to the trailhead evens out alongside streams and small pine trees. The park is a protected area, and with luck, you'll come across the local wildlife such as marmots, isards, or golden eagles.
Other activities around Barèges
This scenic but challenging hike takes around eight hours to complete. The best time of year to go is from late June to September, when the trails are snow-free, plus September is usually quieter when the majority of visitors have left. Sturdy boots are a must, and layering up is the best way to prepare for sudden weather changes. Trekking poles are also useful, especially when you reach the steeper, rockier parts. Don't forget water bottles, which you can refill at the Refuge d'Aygues-Cluses on the way up. The mountains aren't closed off after autumn, though. In winter, the same peaks and valleys bring the skiing crowds to the Grand Tourmalet slopes around Barèges and La Mongie. From November to April, you can enjoy snowboarding, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and dog sledding in over 300 hectares of unspoilt, snow-covered slopes.
Although most visitors come to the Pyrenees for hiking in summer, there are also plenty of mountain bike trails. Barèges Bike Park caters to all levels, with day passes costing $30. And if you're up for a challenge, Bareges is the perfect starting point for cyclists hoping to tackle the legendary Col du Tourmalet, the Pyrenean section of the Tour de France. To experience the charm of France at a more relaxing pace, wander through some of the historic cobbled streets of the pretty hilltop villages, or treat yourself to a restorative soak in the famous thermal pools and recharge after a long day in the mountains.