Rick Steves Calls This Beautiful Gem The Most Romantic Château In All Of France
For a large dose of history and art with a sprinkling of romance all rolled in one, you don't need to look much further than the châteaux of France, and in particular, the Loire Valley. They're everywhere you look, over 300 in fact, just waiting to spill their tales of scandal and intrigue from behind their stone façades. But some of these French castles are unmissable, and one that is guaranteed to steal the hearts of even the most unromantic souls is the Château de Chenonceau. Described as "a delight to explore" by Rick Steves on his website, this 16th-century Renaissance palace has earned its romantic reputation both for its beautiful architecture and the equally beautiful ladies who lived there, hence the reason it's also known as the Château des Dames (the ladies' château).
Located around 22 miles from Tours, its graceful arches curve over the River Cher, perfectly reflected in the water below. The château is surrounded by the immaculate formal gardens, adding to its regal grandeur, while the interior holds more than a few secrets of love, power, and rivalry. Originally constructed on the site of an old mill, the château you see today was built between 1513 and 1517 and brought to life by Catherine Briçonnet. Amongst the famous succession of women who have all left their mark here, the most celebrated of them all were Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de' Medici. In 1547, King Henri II gave Chenonceau not to his queen, Catherine, but instead to his mistress Diane, who added the arches and the 60-meter-long gallery over the river. However, when the king died, Catherine took her revenge, quickly evicting Diane and reclaiming both her power and the chateau for her son, the future King Henry III. Diane didn't completely lose out, though, but had to make do with the nearby Château de Chaumont instead.
Inside the Château de Chenonceau
As you wander around the château and its grounds, it's hard not to feel a sense of awe at the stunning Renaissance architecture, the impressive collection of paintings by some of the great European masters, like Rubens, Tintoretto, and Van Dyke, as well as the fine display of exquisite tapestries that hang on the walls. As the second most visited castle in France (Versailles is the most popular), Chenonceau has captured the hearts of thousands of people who have passed through the beautifully decorated rooms and the meticulous palace gardens.
Some notable rooms to visit are Diane de Poitiers' bedroom, where legend has it, Catherine de' Medici had her portrait hung above the fireplace in an attempt to erase the memory of Diane from its walls; Catherine's green study, where she ruled France while looking out over her gardens; and the tiny private chapel with many of its original features, which survived the French Revolution disguised as a wood store. Some features that didn't survive are the stained glass windows, which were destroyed during World War II. The chateau played an important role during both world wars. During World War I, it was turned into a military hospital, and during World War II, it was a secret escape route from Nazi-occupied territory into free France, where many found their way back to freedom.
Visiting France's most romantic château
There are plenty of ways to visit Chenonceau. As a popular day trip from Paris, it takes just over two hours on the train. Or, you could join a full-day Loire Valley tour, also from Paris, which takes you there by coach. Hiring a car gives you the freedom to take your time, or do as the French do and explore with a guided bike tour with a wine and cheese picnic lunch. For something a bit different, you could take a hot air balloon flight, where you certainly won't have to worry about queues or crowds. Entry into Chenonceau costs $20 or $26 with the audioguide (which is definitely worth getting if you're interested in finding out more about the women who shaped the chateau). This includes access to both the château and the gardens, open all year round, with longer hours in the summer.
Wine connoisseurs can explore the château's wine cellar by taking the guided evening wine tasting tour, where you can sample some of the region's famous appellations from one of France's world-renowned wine regions – perhaps not quite what Rick Steves meant when he called it "the toast of the Loire" on his site. While you're in the region, it would be a shame not to visit some of the other grand châteaux there too. Some of the standouts are easy to remember as they all start with "Ch" — Chambord, Chinon, Cheverny, and the one where Diane de Poitiers was banished to, Chaumont.