Rick Steves Recommends Checking Out The 'Ruin Pubs' In This Part Of Budapest

Straddling the mighty Danube and filled with magnificent Gothic, Renaissance, Neo-Gothic, and Art Nouveau architecture, Budapest is hardly off the beaten track. In fact, the gorgeous capital of Hungary is one of the most important and significant cities in the world — a political and cultural powerhouse bursting with stunning churches, ancient fortresses, luxurious geothermal spas, and Michelin-starred restaurants. It's also one of the most interesting, exciting, and eye-catching cities in Europe, and a must-see for any traveler.

Alongside its fabulous cultural highlights, dramatic architecture, and famous bathhouses that make it the perfect relaxing destination, Budapest is also one of the best European cities to enjoy a lively nightlife scene. From opera to live jazz, and sunset river cruises, European travel expert Rick Steves recommends heading to the atmospheric Jewish Quarter to discover "the edgy side to Budapest evenings, best enjoyed in the city's 'ruin pubs' (romkocsma)."

That said, despite its many attractions, Budapest doesn't always get the recognition it deserves. According to Steves, "Budapest can be challenging and complicated ... [and] most Americans choose Prague as their first foray into formerly communist Europe." However, those brave souls who do decide to explore one of the twin capitals of the Austro-Hungarian Empire will likely discover the most underrated big city in Europe — blending grandeur with a wonderful edge of exoticism and magic, as well as a heady mix of Old World charm, artistic flair, and indulgent experiences.

Party vibes amid picturesque urban decay

The ruin pubs of Budapest are a unique part of its after-dark scene and a tremendous way to get closer to the authentic character of the city. Described as "ramshackle, cavern-like bars crammed with revelers having the time of their lives," by Steves, they are certainly unlike anything else you'll find in other European cities. 

As the name suggests, ruin pubs tend to be found in shells of old buildings, often dilapidated shops or housing blocks that have long stood empty. According to Steves, "their low-profile entryways look abandoned, but through a maze of hallways you emerge into large rooms and open-air courtyards filled with people and thrift-shop furniture." The decor tends to be equally unusual, "like a gang of squatters made a trip to the dump yesterday and grabbed whatever was usable, moved in today, and are open for business tonight." Nonetheless, it's precisely this chaotic, alternative vibe that makes ruin pubs so exciting.

The ruin pubs of Budapest are the perfect showcase for its blend of Old World elegance and quirky, off-beat character. "In one room dancers thump to an industrial beat. In the next, live jazz enhances an art display. In the next room, you and your partner find yourselves alone — perfect for an intimate conversation," Steves points out. A night out in one (or several) of these truly one-of-a-kind drinking establishments is something completely different — an experience that will likely stay with you wherever you go in the world.

The best ruin pubs in Budapest

The most popular and best place to start an exploration of Budapest's ruin pubs is with the OG: Szimpla Kert (Simple Garden). Referred to as "the mecca of ruin pubs in Budapest" by Steves, this is where the ruin pub concept began, making it the perfect example of what makes ruin pubs such an unusual and electrifying idea. Housed in a crumbling mansion, its faded grandeur and picturesque decrepitude create a wonderfully eclectic atmosphere. A warren of stairways, tiny rooms, little nooks, and graffitied corridors surround several open patios, while an array of different bars, DJs, and eateries are tucked away everywhere you look. Inside, patrons can smoke shisha, hide away in the dark with a beer, or go all-out with exceptional cocktails before dancing the night away. In short, it's one of those places where you can make the night whatever you want it to be.

Another superb example, and one of Steves' favorites, is Instant-Fogas. Another "warren of rooms and alcoves in a historic-feeling, but appropriately run-down, building," Steves particularly likes the upside-down room with furniture on the ceiling. Alternatively, there's also Kőleves Kert, an unusual spot even by the standards of ruin pubs. Housed inside a former monastery, its combination of verdant greenery and beautiful old architecture makes it a gem — even if it isn't quite as edgy or psychedelic as some of the others. Finally, for the most dedicated night owls who want the party to keep on going right into tomorrow, Doboz offers upscale cocktails to a chic, sophisticated clientele, and pumping tunes until 6 a.m.