Oregon's Rugged Mountain Wilderness Boasts Stunning, Wild Mustangs That Run Free

There are many reasons to visit Steens Mountain, but seeing the wild horses that roam there has to be one of the most memorable. Situated in remote southeastern Oregon, the nearest inhabited settlement, Frenchglen, is about a 60-mile drive south from Burns along OR-205. If you fly into Redmond, it's a 204-mile drive along the US-20; or if you're coming from further north, try this other scenic road trip through Oregon. The mountain itself is part of the Steens Mountain Wilderness, boasting over 170,000 acres of wide open space managed by the Bureau of Land Management. Within this area is the Kiger Herd Management Area (HMA), which is home to the free-roaming Kiger mustangs.

To drive up to the mountain, take the 52-mile Steens Mountain Backcountry Byway (also called the Steens Mountain Loop Road), which begins at Frenchglen and climbs thousands of feet towards the summit. The road passes through sagebrush flats, aspen groves, and alpine valleys before looping back to OR-205. The road includes some spectacular viewing points at Kiger Gorge, East Rim Overlook, and Wildhorse Lake Overlook.

You'll also skirt the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, home to an abundance of wildlife and birds who are drawn to the natural water sources of the Donner und Blitzen River. The best time to drive the loop is from July to October, when the high passes are clear of snow. Be prepared for a rough drive over gravel roads, best tackled with a high-clearance vehicle. It's slow going, but it gives you time to appreciate the views and search for the mustangs.

What makes the Kiger mustangs special is that they are only found in this region. Descended largely from Spanish horses brought to North America in the 17th century, they were thought to have disappeared. In 1977, they were rediscovered and are now protected by law within the HMA. Mostly dun in color, they often have distinctive dorsal or zebra-like stripes. They survive on native grasses and shrubs within their habitat, sustained by the water sources of nearby rivers and streams.

Standing up to around 15 hands high, they are sturdy, agile horses, making them ideally suited to the mountainous wilderness. In the Kiger HMA, there are usually around 51 to 82 horses in the herd. One of the best places to see wild horses is at the Kiger Mustang Viewing Area east of Frenchglen, or the more remote Riddle Mountain HMA.

And what better way to catch sight of them than by horseback? The Steens Mountain Guest Ranch, located at the base of the mountain, offers horseback experiences on the working ranch, where you can channel your inner cowboy. They'll take you out to try and find these beautiful animals in their natural habitat, where you may also see pronghorn antelope, bighorn sheep, or golden eagles. Prolong your wild east experience and set out on the mountain trails, or pitch a tent under dark skies that are perfect for stargazing.

Like some other beautiful hikes in Oregon, there are some excellent trails around the mountain. The Wildhorse Lake Trail is a moderate 2.5-mile hike. This short but steep out-and-back trail takes in some outstanding views over Wildhorse Basin, whatever the weather. The more challenging Big Indian Gorge Trail is a 16.6-mile trail that takes around seven hours to complete. The trails are exposed with little shade, so plan to take plenty of water and sun protection. If you want a somewhat flatter walk, head out to the eastern side of the mountain, where you'll find a completely different landscape at the Alvord Desert. This 11-mile-long lakebed is one of the driest spots in Oregon, and you can either walk or drive across its cracked surface. At the end of the day, head to Alvord Hot Springs for a soak in the soothing waters.

There are several campgrounds dotted around Steens Mountain. Just three miles from Frenchglen, Page Springs Campground has 36 sites and is also the trailhead for two short hikes: the 3.6-mile Blitzen River Trail and the 1.3-mile Wilderness Trail. Higher up the Steens Mountain Loop Road, the more remote Jackman Park Campground only has six sites, but with some of the best sunrise views on the mountain. If you're on horseback, South Steens Campground has 15 equestrian sites as well as 36 family campsites. Facilities are fairly basic at these campsites with no hookups, and supplies are limited at Frenchglen, so come prepared with food, fuel, and water.