This Stunning Isle In Europe Is A Whisky Lover's Paradise To Add To Your Bucket List
There's no shortage of stunning destinations to visit in Scotland, and the Isle of Islay (pronounced eye-la) easily earns its place near the top. Voted one of the best places to go in Europe by Condé Nast Traveler, the landscape isn't the only reason hundreds of thousands of visitors arrive each year.
With 11 whisky distilleries peppering the island, and another two planned, will there be room left for anything else? At around 231 square miles, Islay, or the Queen of the Hebrides, as she's fondly known, is the fifth-largest Scottish island, and the term whisky tourism was surely coined with both her and close neighbor Jura in mind.
Lying about 75 miles from the mainland, getting there's easy enough. You can either fly in from Glasgow with Loganair, which takes around 45 minutes, or take the cheaper, but longer, ferry across the Sound of Jura from Kennacraig. This scenic journey takes roughly two hours to Port Askaig in the north, or around two and a half hours to Port Ellen in the south. As soon as you step ashore, you'll be greeted with the unmistakable scent of peat bogs, carried upon the sea breeze over heather moorlands, woodlands, and wetlands into the single malts that are lovingly distilled here.
Whisky, wildlife, and a warm Islay welcome
The island may be a pilgrimage site for serious whisky connoisseurs, and a highlight of any trip to Scotland, but even if it isn't your main reason for coming, it's worth taking a tour around one or two distilleries to get into the island "spirit". A walk along Three Distilleries Pathway is a pleasant way to spend a day, although it may take somewhat longer to walk back.
Starting in Port Ellen, Islay's second largest town after Bowmore, the three-mile coastal pathway along the southern edge of the island takes in Laphroaig and Lagavulin before ending in Ardbeg. You can even take a short detour to the ruins of Dunyvaig Castle, once the stronghold of Clan MacDonald, and the scene of dramatic 16th-century sieges between feuding Scottish clans. All three distilleries offer tours and tastings, and if the fresh sea air builds up a hearty appetite, satisfy your hunger with delicious home-cooked food at the Old Kiln Cafe when you arrive at Ardbeg.
During the tours, you can find out more about the craft of whisky-making, from the malting of the barley to the distilling process, accompanied by the comforting crackle of smouldering peat fires and stunning island surroundings. For a seafront view of the distilleries and a great opportunity to see some of the island's diverse wildlife, head out on a boat tour with Islay Sea Adventures. The cruise takes you from Port Ellen, following the southern coastline, where there are often sightings of seals and dolphins, white tailed eagles, and perhaps the monarch of the glen himself, the majestic red deer. You'll also be treated to an immersive insight into Islay's history and culture from your friendly and knowledgeable local guide.
Exploring Islay's heritage
The warm welcome from one of Scotland's remote corners reaches far beyond a wee dram, with endless ways to explore the wild outdoors. With 130 miles of unspoiled coastline, and numerous beaches to wander along, take a windswept walk along The Big Strand, not far from the airport, which at seven miles is the island's longest sandy beach.
The more secluded Singing Sands beach is just south of the unusually square Carraig Fhada Lighthouse, which stands watch over Port Ellen from across the water. With 23 trails dotted around, take your pick from the challenging 11-mile Beinn Bheigier and Glas Bheinn Circular Walk over on the east coast, which takes you over wetlands, moorlands, and the island's highest point, to the easier 3.8-mile Machir Bay Walk in the west, where you'll perhaps be greeted by friendly highland cows.
History lovers should head out to Loch Finlaggan, a few miles south of Port Askaig. Within the loch are three small islands with the remains of an ancient settlement, and a visitors center that brings the ruins back to life with a virtual reconstruction. Islay is also the site of several music festivals throughout the year. In May, the Fèis Ìle festival is a 10-day celebration of island culture and, of course, whisky, with ceilidhs, tours, and tastings in and around the island's distilleries for a true taste of Islay magic. If you're still thirsty for more legendary Scottish hospitality, hop on the ferry to the Isle of Jura. It only takes 10 minutes, and there's another world-class single malt waiting for you on the other side.