Massachusetts' Semi-Private Island Next To Martha's Vineyard Offers Pristine Beaches
Only about 30 people live on Naushon Island, a long landmass off the southern coast of Massachusetts. These folks like their privacy, too: Naushon covers about 7.4 square miles, yet travelers are only allowed to visit tiny nooks of the island. This place is described as "semi-private," a sanctuary for well-heeled residents who want to keep the mainland at arm's length. Naushon is the largest of the 20 or so Elizabeth Islands, an archipelago just southwest of Woods Hole and just northwest of Martha's Vineyard. These destinations are clustered so close together that you can actually see them from Naushon Island's shores. If the tides are right, you can paddle a kayak between any of these places in a single day.
The people of Naushon Island would just as soon outsiders steered clear, and unless you're a Harvard grad with a decent fortune, you probably won't get invited over for dinner. This is typical of the Elizabeth Islands, which are mostly privately owned and technically make up the tiny town of Gosnold (population 120). The most welcoming destination is Cuttyhunk, which has an inn, a handful of nice restaurants, and some understated tourism, mostly sailing and fishing. Naushon doesn't have any real commerce at all, just stately cottages and the Tarpaulin Cove Lighthouse.
So why would anyone visit such a peculiar place? There are a few reasons, but the biggest draw is the beachfront: Naushon Island has three beaches that are open to the public. Assuming you can make your way out here, you're welcome to spend the day on their sands, and for many, the unusual journey alone is worth it. If you're already on a road trip to the best of New England's quirky towns, Naushon's beaches are an adventurous side-trip.
The secret pleasures of Naushon Island beaches
If you embrace the phrase "getting there is half the fun," then Naushon Island may be for you. There's no bridge here, which is typical of the Elizabeth Islands, and there's also no public ferry. You either have to own a boat or you'll have to hire one; there's simply no other way to reach these shores. This is one hint that there are no private motor vehicles on the island at all; you could easily add Naushon to a list of places in the U.S. where cars are not allowed.
That's one reason boaters love it here. Many different waterways overlap around the Elizabeth Islands, but the most famous body is Buzzards Bay, which encompasses the former whaling hub of New Bedford (of "Moby-Dick" fame). This area is busy with yachts, trawlers, motorboats, and ferries, and recreational sailors love to weave among these cozy channels. Captaining a small vessel is the ideal way to visit Naushon Island, because you're free to drop anchor in any of its harbors and even spend a night or two. This isn't some ambitious charter; given favorable winds, you could set sail in the morning from Falmouth, visit any of Naushon Island's beaches, and be back by lunchtime.
You can come ashore in three specific places: West Beach, Kettle Cove Beach, and Tarpaulin Cove Beach. All these beaches are your classic Cape Cod-style getaways, with powdery sands, shallow waters for wading, and low-lying terrain all around. Swimming and sunning are your go-to warm-weather pastimes; the Tarpaulin Cove Lighthouse is also the near-ideal New England beacon, with its whitewashed tower and photogenic hilltop setting.
Getting to the Elizabeth Islands and where to stay
New England's southern coast is a veritable playground for mariners, and millions of tourists pour into the region every summer to hang out in Cape Cod, Martha's Vineyard, and Nantucket. The closest major airport is Boston Logan International, which receives planes from all over the world but is kind of a pain to leave; aside from gunning your rental car through inner-city Boston, you also have to drive nearly two hours across eastern Massachusetts to reach Woods Hole. A far more relaxing alternative is to arrive in T.F. Green in Rhode Island, a chipper little New England airport that takes the crown as one of America's best. Though you're coming from another state, the drive is only 90 minutes from the Providence suburbs.
The truth is, very few people actually stay the night on the Elizabeth Islands, since accommodations are few and most property belongs to residents. Luckily, Falmouth is a lovely seaside town with a wide range of inns and hotels. Falmouth specializes in seafood, and you could spend a week sampling all its pubs and restaurants. Woods Hole is a peninsular village on the edge of Falmouth, where you can not only board a ferry but also visit the world-famous Science Aquarium. If you're looking for a romantic getaway, this East Coast town is a great spot for a seaside couples trip.