Rick Steves Recommends Cinque Terre's Only Resort Town For A Vibrant Italian Getaway

There are coastal locations all around the world well-known as tourism destinations. In Italy, top-of-mind places that fit the bill include the Amalfi Coast, Venice, and the oh-so-glamorous town of Portofino on the Italian Riviera (the best travel destination for your first beach vacation abroad). These are bucket-list places that people with limited vacation time dream of visiting — someday. Their reputations are well-deserved. It's rare that anyone who eventually fulfills a longtime travel goal would be disappointed when they finally set foot in their dream destination. But the wide acclaim comes at a price in the form of higher cost and denser crowds, especially during prime travel months. 

Longtime travel guru, guidebook author, and television host Rick Steves has some thoughts on that go-where-the-crowds-go mentality. It all boils down to just don't do it. Instead, Steves advises setting your sights on what he calls second cities. "All over Europe there are these Instagram spots, or ones from TV or movies that people make pilgrimages to," Steves told Harvard Business Review. "We try to stay away from all that. Do you want to be a crowd follower or an explorer? That's what I try to help people navigate."

That's probably why one of Steves' favorite destinations in Italy is Cinque Terre, a string of five centuries-old fishing villages on Italy's northwest coast in the region of Liguoria. Each individual village has its own character. As Steves says, "These towns are the rugged alternative to the glitzy Riviera resorts nearby. This is the place to take a sightseeing breather, and inhale slower-paced Italian culture in perhaps its purest form." Of the five, Steves recommends the village of Monterosso — Cinque Terre's only resort town — as the best choice for visitors looking to combine a resort experience with authentic Italy.

Steves' definition of resort town has nothing to do with glitz, glamour, and a marina filled with superyachts. The difference between Monterosso and its neighboring Cinq Terre villages is subtle and comes in the form of public parking lots, convenient beach umbrella rentals, and a (relatively) vibrant nightlife. You'll also find a wider selection of lodging options in Monterosso. The flip-side is that the town's Old World essence beckons in the form of winding streets lined by local shops and cafés. An evening stroll along the waterfront reveals starlit vistas and the twinkling lights of neighboring villages, a far cry from a promenade lined with luxury yachts.

Monterosso is located on a rugged hillside overlooking the waterfront. Lemon and olive trees punctuate the tiered landscape, but the town itself is relatively flat, making it a bit more pedestrian-friendly than its neighbors, though navigating the region may be easier than you think. That, plus the fact that Monterosso has a more established tourism infrastructure, makes it a good choice for families and people with mobility limitations. 

Monterosso is separated into two distinct sections — a historic district (Borgo Antico) and a more modern commercial district (Fegina) — connected by a (mostly) pedestrian tunnel. A few registered cars and vans are also authorized to use the tunnel that's about the length of a U.S. football field. If you're arriving by train, you'll exit the station across from Fegina Beach (sometimes called Bagni Eden in reference to the beach club and bar that manages lounge and umbrella rentals). To access the tunnel, turn left at the beach and walk along the promenade (Via Fegina) until it splits at the entrance. Stay left on Via Fegina to walk through the tunnel. Alternatively, bear right onto Salita del Capuccini to follow a longer, more scenic, above-ground route.

While Fegnia holds bragging rights as the location of the most well-known beach in Monterosso, in addition to Il Gigante, the ruins of an almost 50-foot-tall concrete-and-iron sculpture commissioned by a wealthy landowner in 1910, Borgo Antico retains its Old World charm. In addition to exploring the interesting shops and cafés tucked into nooks and crannies along the Old Town's winding lanes, be sure to check out historic highlights like Aurora Tower. Located on the San Cristoforo promontory between Fegina and Borgo Antico (if you skip the tunnel and take the longer route between the two districts, you'll pass right by it), the landmark is what remains of an ancient fortress built to protect the community from pirate raids. Today, it's home to Torre Aurora Cucina, a restaurant known for stunning ocean views.

Look for a staircase in front of Aurora Tower to reach Capuchin Monastery and the Church of St. Francis, historic structures perched atop a bluff behind the promontory. And be sure to check out the Church of St. John the Baptist. The Monterosso landmark dating to the 14th century features a stunning center rose window set in white marble. When it comes to timing a visit, the busy season peaks in late spring through the end of summer. Shoulder seasons tend to be less crowded and there's still plenty to do including a year-round roster of festivals and events. The farmers' market takes place every Thursday and the annual Lemon Festival in May is a must for citrus lovers. September brings the Anchovy and Olive Oil Festival (Rick Steves says sampling Cinque Terre anchovies is an absolute must), and a Cinque Terre-centric wine festival. Tempted? Start planning. The closest international gateways are Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP) and Pisa International Airport Galileo Galilei (PSA).