A Beautiful, Historic Castle Overlooks Italy's Dazzling Lake Como With Views Of The Alps
If you're really into the Middle Ages, you'll like knowing that Castello Baradello is a real medieval castle. This isn't some cheesy chateau built by an eccentric dandy. You won't find decorative spires or Cinderella ballrooms. Baradello dates back to the 12th century, when castles were still spartan fortresses designed to protect noble families from invading armies. Lookouts could scan the city and its surroundings from the castle's square stone tower; archers could fire arrows from its crenellated walls. Baradello stood on top of a mountain to maintain the high ground during battle. The stakes were high: Como had been burned to the ground some years earlier, and locals weren't about to let that happen again.
Today, Baradello is a semi-ruined monument looming high over Como. While the castle's glory days are long past, the keep still stands, as do many of the outer walls. History buffs will appreciate the castle's no-frills design and imposing character. Yet most visitors will come up here for the view: the castle also overlooks Lake Como, which is one of northern Italy's main attractions and among the most famous bodies of water in all of Europe. It's the subject of innumerable postcards and screen savers, and it was prominently featured in the James Bond film "Casino Royale." The lake is gorgeous from any viewpoint, but it's hard to beat the one that's a tower standing high above the glistening water. You could easily add the castle to a list of underrated tourist destinations in Italy.
The past and present of Castello Baradello
Located just a short distance from the Swiss border, the Como region is the pride of the Italian Alps, and the castle mount provides one of its most romantic vistas. Back in the Dark Ages, locals constructed a stronghold on the hill. By the 1150s, the importance of this region had come to the attention of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, leader of the vast Holy Roman Empire. He commissioned a larger stronghold on the same hill that would become Castello Baradello. Over the next centuries, the castle changed hands many times — and briefly served as a prison. It was largely taken apart during the Renaissance to keep it from falling into enemy hands, yet the tower has remained intact to the present day.
The best way to see the tower and castle ruins for yourself is to trek up to it from the southwest edge of Como. This hike is only 3.6 miles round trip, but you should budget two hours due to the sweat-inducing 1,069-foot climb. You'll also want to linger at the top, savoring the picturesque views. Gaze out across the forested slopes, over the red-roofed houses and glistening lake, all the way to the jagged Alps piercing the horizon. The jaunt and views are rewarding in all seasons but make sure to pack the type of clothing Rick Steves recommends for the Alps, no matter what time of year. If you're visiting the castle on a weekend, you can join a guided tour from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. (weekday visits are by appointment only). Adult admission to the castle is €7 (less than $10).
Lake Como, Castle Baradello, and beyond
The closest airport to Lake Como is Milan Malpensa International, about 35 minutes away by car. A rental car is the easiest and most flexible option once you arrive at the airport, as mass transit will require transfers, and taxis will get expensive. Lake Como (known in Italian as Lago di Como) is long, skinny, and ringed by a smattering of towns and villages. While the historic town of Como is packed with hotels, it's generally considered a high-end destination — most people come here to enjoy fine dining, luxury shopping, and boating on the lake. This means you won't find many rooms in downtown Como for less than $200 per night. Head to the outskirts of town or other less trendy towns for more affordable accommodations.
Note that Lake Como has endured a lot of overtourism in recent years, and the high season during the summer months can be downright suffocating. The lake is spectacular, but you might consider visiting during one of the shoulder seasons (spring or fall) or dropping in for a day trip while based in a less congested area. Many newcomers assume that Lake Como is the only place worth seeing in the Italian Alps, and nothing could be farther from the truth. If you're looking for a less-crowded alternative to Lake Como, Rick Steves recommends Italy's Lake Maggiore, which is a scenic 90-minute drive from Como. Lake Maggiore also has its own castle called Rocca di Angera, and it's just as medieval in character as Castello Baradello.