Rick Steves Says This Beautiful, Car-Free Gem Offers The 'Ideal Greek Island Experience'

What's more idyllic than the azure seas, whitewashed buildings, and slow, sun-drenched pace of the Greek Islands? Well, all of that without the cars or the crowds. That's exactly what the island of Hydra delivers. In the absence of cars on the island, the ways to get around are donkeys, water taxis, and walking, and visitors can feel like they've stepped back into another century. Choosing the right Greek island to visit can make or break your trip, and as America's best-loved European travel influencer, Rick Steves, writes on his site, Hydra "offers the ideal Greek island experience." Steves continues, "the beauty of Hydra is in relaxing at a café and aimlessly wandering its back lanes." 

A tiny island measuring just 13 miles long, it lies just off the Peloponnese Peninsula, a region that Steves thinks is Greece's most underrated. Yet Hydra is far from a hidden backwater. It has long attracted artists, writers, and stars. Sophia Loren filmed on Hydra, Leonard Cohen had a house there, and Maria Callas and Aristotle Onassis retreated on the island. To this day, megayachts and traditional fishing boats line Hydra's harbor, and visitors are drawn to soak in the island's beauty. But, as Steves says, "few venture beyond the harborfront." That means that in the upper town and the island beyond, you can experience glorious solitude.

Exploring Hydra's hills and swimming spots

One of the island's greatest pleasures is simply wandering around the main town (also called Hydra) and picturesque port area. As you meander through the quaint alleyways flanked by stone houses covered with bright pink bougainvillea, you'll come across pretty courtyards and intimate squares. If possible, try to make it to the upper area of the town. You'll need good walking shoes and strong calves, but Rick Steves loved its charms, describing the "shabby homes" with sweeping views on his website and a part of the island where life moves at a slow pace, "oblivious to tourism."

No visit to the island is complete without a dip in its sparkling waters. Many of the bathing spots are within walking distance of the main town. The most developed is Vlichos, where sunbeds and umbrellas line the pebbly beach, and a couple of tavernas serve drinks and local specialties. If you want a true Hydra experience, take a water taxi to one of the more far-flung beaches. For a back-to-basics experience, head to Molos (around 3 miles outside of Hydra Town), where crystalline waters lap against the pebble shoreline. If you prefer somewhere with loungers and refreshments, check out Bisti (6 miles from town). The best way to get to these beaches is to catch a water taxi from the harbor in the main town. A price list should be posted on the boat, and you can arrange for the captain to collect you later in the day.

Dining, nightlife, and where to stay on Hydra

Despite its tiny size, Hydra Town doesn't go to sleep as soon as the sun sets. You can count on an excellent meal well into the evening hours and lively places to have a drink afterward. Fancy restaurants line the port area, while the inner streets of the town are dotted with traditional tavernas. Most restaurants offer deliciously fresh seafood, like octopus and sardines, alongside other local dishes, including moussaka and souvlaki. In the summertime, the port area buzzes with energy after dark. Check out Hydronetta for cocktails with scenic views, or The Pirate Bar for excellent coffee by day and stronger offerings by night.

Unless you arrive by yacht, you'll likely stay in Hydra Town itself. There are accommodations for every budget, from the five-star luxury of Hydrea to traditional stone buildings that have been transformed into guesthouses. Follow Rick Steves' lead, and choose a characteristic hotel in Europe to enjoy a more unique experience.

Hydra can only be reached by ferry, but one of its greatest attractions for Steves is that getting there "doesn't even require a long journey across the Aegean," per his website. From Athens, high-speed ferries deposit you on Hydra in around two hours. Alternatively, you can add Hydra to a trip around the Peloponnese. Boats depart from the Peloponnese village of Metochi and cross the water to Hydra in around 15 minutes. Once you're there, it's simply time to enjoy. As Steves observes on his website, "Hydra is an easy blend of stray cats, hardworking donkeys, welcoming Hydriots (as locals are called), and lazy tourists on 'island time.'"

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