Avoid Crowds At This Remote Surf Town In Portugal With Gorgeous Beaches
After staying off the beaten track for years, Portugal is now firmly on the tourist trail. This gorgeous little corner of Europe combines great culture, picturesque architecture, and fascinating history with stunning landscapes, mouthwatering food, and some of the best under-the-radar beaches in Europe. It's a country that is laid-back yet exciting, beautiful yet strange, and still surprisingly affordable, making it an amazing vacation destination for almost any traveler.
Most visitors to Portugal start off in Lisbon, the underrated foodie city filled with azulejo tiles, fado music, and a vibrant atmosphere that keeps the city buzzing 24/7. After Lisbon, destinations vary. Families often head south to the sun-drenched sands of the Algarve, while wine-lovers might go north to Porto and the Douro Valley. Cultural travelers will enjoy the castles and historic sights of Coimbra, and hikers and hillwalkers might take on the peaks and summits of the Serra de Açor (Goshawk Mountains). Surfers, however, will undoubtedly head to Portugal's wild west coast to discover the stunning waves of the Atlantic.
Portugal's Atlantic coast boasts some of the best surf towns in Europe. And while many have become popular as Portugal's profile has grown, there are still plenty of spots where you'll have gorgeous views and sublime surf breaks almost to yourself. One of the best is the remote town of Aljezur. Tucked away in Portugal's southwest corner, around 20 miles from the city of Lagos and just south of the Alentejo region, Aljezur offers the best of the country's fantastic Atlantic coastline without the crowds. It's a secluded spot, so it can be somewhat tricky to get to, but Faro International Airport is only an hour and twenty minutes away by car, making it accessible despite its remote location.
Some of the best surfing in Portugal
Aljezur's proximity to some of Portugal's finest surfing beaches is what attracts most visitors to the town. And it's not hard to see why. Dramatic cliffs, clean, steady breaks, and glorious golden sand make the beaches nearby an absolute dream, for surfers, swimmers, and sun-worshippers alike. With several beaches within a short drive, there's plenty of variety for all levels of surfing experience.
Arrifana offers the gentlest waves and tends to be the best option for beginners. Located around six miles southwest of Aljezur's old town, the beach lies in a sheltered bay backed by a sleepy fishing village with a few charming bars and restaurants, as well as several surf hostels. The waves are mellow and the vibes are too, and it's as delightful a spot to just chill and relax in as to surf.
While the waves in Arrifana can get large at times, experienced board riders tend to head further afield, with Amado and Bordeira being the best options for veterans. These are more exposed beaches, and the swells tend to be bigger and rougher (up to 10 feet in summer), but they are still consistent, and the beach is protected from the north wind. For those who want to stick as close to town as possible, the Praia do Medo da Fonte Santa is a delight, really only accessible on-foot along the Ruta Vicentina, and completely pristine and untouched.
Moorish architecture and mouthwatering seafood
The waves might be the main thing that draws visitors to Aljezur, but they are certainly not its only attraction. The old town is absolutely stunning, a wonderful pile of historic fortifications combining a Moorish center, a 10th-century castle, and a 'newer' Christian district at the top of a steep hill. The houses are built in the classic Algarve style, with whitewashed walls and orange-tiled roofs, and a narrow river bisects the town, spanned by bridges.
The town is small but bustling, with a buzzy, lively atmosphere and plenty of places to relax after a day of surfing. Roots, in the old town, is a charming cafe with great breakfasts, freshly-baked pastries, and a lovely menu of light bites ideal for lunch. Pizzeria Vincentina does itself a disservice by describing itself as just a pizzeria, as the rest of its Italian-inspired menu is great as well. Over in the new town, there's far more variety, with Várzea, Cervejaria Mar, and Volto the pick of the bunch. Don't miss the seafood specialties of the region, from razor clams to tiger prawns, and in particular the weird and wonderful delicacy that is percebes. These bizarre 'gooseneck barnacles' might look like alien creatures, but are a mouthwatering treat you won't find in many other places.
The surrounding countryside is worth exploring as well. Aljezur sits amidst the Southwest Alentejo and St. Vincent Coast Nature Park, and the landscape around the town is covered in a carpet of gorse and heather, painted in soft purples, yellows, and greens. It offers a bunch of gentle walking trails, and is worth exploring on a day when the waves aren't behaving.