Kauai's 'Biggest Little Town' Is The Island's Art Capital With Old-School Hawaiian Charm

There's more to Hawaii than pristine beaches and swaying palm trees. Case in point, the village of Hanapepe. Located on Kauai's South Shore about 20 miles southwest of Lihue Airport (LIH), Hanapepe (pronounced hah-nah-PEH-peh) dates to the late 19th century when immigrants arriving from China, Japan, and the Philippines started settling in the area.

By some accounts Hanapepe — an underrated Hawaiian destination that will take your breath away — hasn't changed much in the last 100 years. Unofficial estimates suggest around 40 buildings located within the one-square-mile unincorporated community are old enough to be considered for listing on state, and even national, registers of historic places. Today, those same historic buildings are home to one-of-a-kind shops, boutiques, and almost a dozen local art galleries, laying credence to its claim as the site of more fine arts galleries than any other community on Kauai. The setting is like something out of a vintage postcard. The vibe? Laid back and casually artsy.

Casual eateries offer everything from classic Japanese cuisine and Chinese-American favorites to sandwich shops, bakeries, and traditional shave ice stands. Tasting Kauai offers a food-focused walking tour that includes stops at five local restaurants, encouraging visitors to immerse themselves in the town's history, culture, and cuisine. The 3.5-hour tour ends just in time for the start of the weekly Art Night. A local highlight, the arts community of Hanapepe hosts open studios every Friday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. welcoming guests interested in meeting the artists — painters, sculptors, craftsmen, and artisans — who create the work on display. The weekly event makes for a fun and busy evening with vendors lining Main Street, bustling restaurants, and musical performances.

The story of Hanapepe goes back centuries. Long before Captain James Hook landed on the shore of Kauai in 1778, the region now known as Hanapepe was inhabited by indigenous Kanaka Maoli. In fact, it's believed the native people who made their homes in the lush valley named it after a natural attribute, as Hanapepe means crushed bay. Given its topography, surrounded by towering cliffs that appear to rise from the sea, the region was prone to landslides.

While the fertile valley was ideal for growing crops including bananas, sugar cane, sweet potatoes, and kalo, the community thrived on trading salt harvested from its saltwater ponds. Even today, a few local families continue the tradition. Visiting a local salt flat offers a glimpse into Hanapepe's cultural heritage. It also represents the spiritual connection between Hanapepe's people and the land. 

Located adjacent to Salt Pond Beach, the salt flats sit atop a natural clay base that's about the size of a football field. Deep wells pump sea water from the surrounding watershed into a series of man-made holding pools. As the water evaporates, it leaves behind salt crystals that harvesters collect with rakes. Most of the natural white sea salt is used as a seasoning, just like common table salt, but there's a catch. Authentic Hanapepe salt is never offered for sale. The core families who continue the age-old practice abide by the rules of their ancestors. It can only be traded or gifted. The reserved portion is mixed with red clay from the nearby mountains of Waimea. Tradition holds that the resulting salt blend, used for ritual blessings and healing ceremonies, is imbued with spiritual powers. 

A stone's throw from the salt flats, Salt Pond Beach Park is a family-friendly stretch of sand. An offshore fringe reef protects the natural cove, keeping the clear water calm and making it a great place to snorkel and get an up-close look at underwater marine life. Shallow tidal pools formed when the tide is out are also fun to explore. Plus, due to its westward-facing location, Salt Pond Beach is known for its stunning sunsets. There's usually a lifeguard on duty and public restrooms are on-site. Be sure to check out the Pavillion. The structure is a memorial to Uncle Louis (aka Louis Almadova), a lifelong Hanapepe resident who developed a worldwide fanbase while serving for decades as the unofficial ambassador to and "mayor" of Salt Pond.

Back in town, the oft-photographed Swinging Bridge is a magnet for curiosity seekers looking for a bit of a thrill. The wood-and-cable suspension footbridge spanning the Hanapepe River is just three planks wide. It squeaks and sways with every step. While Hanapepe proper is a relatively small village, there's plenty to see and do in the surrounding area.

Two miles east of town center, Kauai Coffee Company operates the largest coffee farm in the US. Established in 1987, the farm occupies the site of the former McBryde Sugar Company, an island institution dating to the 1800s. Stop by the on-site visitor center to inquire about free walking tours of the estate. Located about 13 miles northwest of Hanapepe, a scenic 19-mile drive through Waimea Canyon State Park — a must-visit Hawaii state park — and Koke'e State Park reveals stunning canyons and awe-inspiring vistas at every twist and turn. Hikers can explore the park's many trails, including one that leads to Waipo'o Falls, an 800-foot cascading waterfall.

Finding a place to stay right in the heart of Hanapepe is a bit of a challenge. If being within walking distance of downtown is a must, your best bet is to search for vacation rental properties. Located about six miles northwest of Hanapepe in the coastal town of Waimea, the West Inn Kauai is a 20-room hotel. The 2-star property, built in 2011, offers guest rooms and suites with kitchenettes. Marjorie's Kauai Inn, about 8.5 miles west of Hanapepe, is one of the longest established B&Bs in the Hawaiian Islands. Set on 1.2 acres of landscaped gardens, and featuring a salt-water swimming pool, the three-room inn offers panoramic views of Lawai Valley.

Located in Koala, about a 12-mile drive, The Lodge at Kukui'ula is a 1,000-acre resort community comprising three distinct neighborhoods featuring one-to four-bedroom luxury villas, bungalows, and cottages. Resort amenities available to guests include an 18-hole Tom Weiskopf-designed golf course and private club access. There's a spa and wellness complex, a 10-acre organic farm, two restaurants, and an infinity-edge swimming pool.

The resort is mere miles from Poipu Beach Park. A stunning beach and great Hawaiian destination for water adventures, Poipu is known for its crystal-clear waters. Hawaiian monk seals occasionally pop up to say hello. There's good reef snorkeling and the beach is on the annual migration route for humpback whales, making it a prime whale-spotting site from December to April. Poipu is also home to a wide variety of well-known branded hotels including Hilton, Sheraton, Marriott, Hyatt, and Royal Sonesta.