A Charming Italian Town With Storybook Vibes Has A Lakeside Promenade & Gorgeous Scenery
Torno looks like it comes straight out of a fairytale. The enchanting village has traditional stone houses, historic churches, and a waterfront walkway. Add stunning water views, and you may have just found your perfect escape from Lake Como's crowds.
Lake Como (Lago di Como) is a Y-shaped lake that was formed by glaciers. It is the third-largest lake in Italy and the fifth-deepest in Europe. It is also surrounded by limestone and granite mountains, which are the foothills of the Alps, the highest mountain range in south-central Europe. With this picture-perfect setting, it is not surprising that its towns, including Como, Bellagio, and Varenna, one of Rick Steves' favorite beach hideaways, attract visitors from all over the world.
This beautiful lake is in Lombardy, a region in northern Italy that stretches all the way to the Swiss border. Milan, Italy's second-largest city, is the regional capital. Its large Milano Malpensa Airport (MXP) receives nonstop flights from cities all over the world, while flights from within Italy and Europe fly into its smaller Milano Linate Airport (LIN). Malpensa Express trains (one-way from $17.50) and the Linate Shuttle (one-way $8) connect both airports to Milano Centrale, northern Italy's biggest train station. From there, it is only 29 miles — or a 42-minute train ride — to Como San Giovanni, the main station in Como. It is just a short walk to the waterfront, which is where ferries heading north (one-way from $3) regularly depart. You could arrive in Torno less than 30 minutes later.
Catch your first glimpse of Torno from the water
Approaching Torno from the water is magical. As the ferry glides north on the lake's Como branch, Cernobbio, a spot on Italy and Switzerland's scenic border, and Moltrasio are on the western shore. Torno, to the east, is the following stop. Piazza Casartelli, colorful homes, small trattorias, and the Church of Santa Tecla stand near the Porticciolo, Torno's marina. Its new port is a collection of floating docks. The old harbor, enclosed by stone walls and filled with small fishing boats, is hidden behind it. A lakeside promenade, lined with benches and flowers, extends from there. While narrow lanes climb into the hillside above the little town, which about 1,000 people call home.
After taking lots of photos in Piazza Casartelli, the main square, the Church of Santa Tecla should be your first stop in Torno. The Romanesque church was built in the 12th century. It has a stone bell tower, a Renaissance portal, and a Gothic rose window. It is also home to a famous 16th-century fresco, "Man of Sorrows, " by local artist Bartolomeo De Benzi. Best of all, the church opens directly onto the lake. It is a beautiful, peaceful spot.
A visit to the church should be followed by lunch along the water. Albergo Ristorante Vapore and Hotel Ristorante il Belvedere both serve lake fish on outdoor terraces. Just add a glass, or maybe a bottle, of chilled white wine to find yourself living la dolce vita.
Hike above Torno for gorgeous views of Lake Como
Though the area around the harbor is pretty, it is not the only spot with impressive views of the water. The hills above Torno have scenic hiking trails and panoramic views of Lake Como. One option, the Torno – Montepiatto – Croce d'Ardona Trail, climbs an ancient mule track, stops at the mushroom-shaped Pietra Pendula boulder, and summits at the Croce d'Ardona, from where you can look out over the entire Como branch of the lake.
On the descent, you can see the Porta di Travaina, the 13th-century gate that was once the entrance to the fortified village. You can also visit the Church of San Giovanni. The Gothic-Romanesque church from the 12th century sits on a steep, cobbled path on the outskirts of Torno. For such a small church, it has a substantial amount of paintings and sculptures. It is considered one of the most beautiful churches on Lake Como.
Another nearby hiking option is Monte San Primo, where hiking trails and gorgeous views of Lake Como and the Alps await atop this mountain. This is the highest peak on the Larian Triangle, the promontory in between the two branches of Lake Como. The nearly five-mile loop trail is fairly steep, but your efforts will be rewarded with a 360-degree panorama of the lake. It is breathtaking. Your Italian fairytale just keeps getting better and better.