This Scenic Mountain Town Is Perfect For A Laid-Back Ski Trip In The French Alps
The Alps are one of the world's most famous mountain ranges. Setting the standard for snow-covered peaks and rugged mountain landscapes, Europe's Alps overflow with majestic scenery and stunning panoramic views. And although Switzerland might be the country most associated with these rugged summits and soaring valleys, the French Alps are no less dramatic and often offer a more relaxing, less expensive winter vacation experience.
From the iconic pinnacle of Mont Blanc to magnificent ski resorts, the French Alps are full of incredible winter bucket list destinations. But while spots like Val Thorens, Chamonix, Courchevel, and Val d'Isère are the most famous and popular, there are lesser-known jewels hidden away amidst the peaks that are worth discovering. One of the best small ski resorts around is Bonneval-sur-Arc, officially one of France's most beautiful villages, with a peaceful atmosphere that makes it a delightful spot for a laid-back ski trip.
Bonneval-sur-Arc is a tiny village in the Savoie department, tucked up against the Italian border in the southern French Alps. The nearest international airport is Chambery, just over two hours away by car, and served by a variety of airlines from destinations around Europe. Turin Airport, over the border in Italy, is also reachable by car in about two and a half hours, making it an attractive alternative transport option.
An off-piste paradise of abundant snow
Overshadowed by the imposing grandeur of Mont Albaron towering nearly 12,000 feet over the village, Bonneval-sur-Arc is one of the most charming and picturesque villages in France. Its ancient stone houses with tiled roofs contrast the pristine white of the mountain slopes behind, making it a wonderful visual experience from the moment you arrive.
The main event in Bonneval-sur-Arc is, unsurprisingly, skiing and winter sports. It doesn't boast the most extensive slopes — just 20 miles of carefully managed pistes — but they tend to be calmer and less busy than many of the other, more renowned options in the French Alps. The combination of high altitude and northerly orientation means that Bonneval-sur-Arc is usually an exceptional source of high-quality snow, making it a great choice for those in the know, and particularly for freeride fans. Lifts are efficient, with almost no queues, and the pass is one of the cheapest around at just $42 a day and $233 for a week. While there are options for novice skiers, the deep snow and fast turns make it more accessible to intermediate or advanced powder hounds.
The groomed pistes are "squeaky, chalky perfection," but Bonneval's real attraction is its amazing off-piste and backcountry offerings. Plunging couloirs and wide-open powder fields fringed with a scattering of pine trees make it an exciting and eye-opening spot for getting out into the exquisite Alpine scenery.
A gorgeous, traditional village with plenty to do
Most people visit Bonneval–sur-Arc solely for the slopes, but the village itself is gorgeous and well worth more attention. Its narrow streets, traditional Savoyard stone architecture, and beautiful Notre-Dame de l'Assomption church are all delightful, and make for a very pleasant morning's exploration. There's also a small museum, Space and Mountain Snow, with exhibitions on the history of the village and mountaineering in the region more generally.
A few miles out of town, the tiny hamlet of Ecot is another gem. This mini-village is one of the highest communities in France, more than 6,500 feet above sea level, and a stunningly beautiful spot. It's accessible by road during the summer months, but in the winter the abundant snow means that you can only reach it by hiking, snowshoeing, or ski-touring.
Despite its small size (the village only has a permanent population of around 259), Bonneval-sur-Arc has a surprisingly excellent selection of local restaurants, making it a great place to eat. La Cabane is renowned for its classic Savoyard cuisine and beautiful traditional decor and design, with its wood-paneled interior creating a delightfully cozy ambiance. Le Glacier des Evettes is another warm, friendly dining spot, with hearty home-cooked meals ideal after a long day on the slopes.