Charming East Coast Winter Views Await On This Delightful Amtrak Train Route

The idea is so romantic: You leave your office — or apartment, or hotel — in New York City, trudge through the slush to Penn Station, and slip into an Amtrak car. The train pulls away, plummets through a tunnel, then emerges in the crisp daylight. The city fades out, replaced by the Hudson River Valley. Towns get smaller and quainter as snow-dusted mountains rise in the distance. You ride through eastern New York, then veer into Vermont. When the train pulls into its final station in Burlington, you've entered a winter fantasy of lakeside views, steaming beverages, and old-school B&Bs.

The Ethan Allen Express Train is what makes this journey possible. This Amtrak route starts in Manhattan and chugs across the Empire and Green Mountain States for roughly six hours, giving riders splendid views of their dynamic landscapes. In theory, you can beeline directly from the Big Apple to Vermont's largest city, watching the topography change from your seat (and enjoying free Wi-Fi). But the train also stops in Poughkeepsie, Saratoga Springs, and Rutland, among other storied towns, so you can stay in any of these places instead, if you like. If you have time, go ahead visit several towns in tandem for a multi-day trip.

Named after Ethan Allen, the famed Revolutionary War general who led Vermont's Green Mountain Boys against the British, the train line was first established in 1996. The train runs year-round, but winter is a magical time to head up this way. Not long ago, a new station was built in Middlebury, Vermont, a New England college town with trails, ski slopes, and a cozy downtown; making for another satisfying stop.

Connecting New York to New England by train

For generations, New Yorkers have flocked northward in the wintertime, exchanging confined apartments for pine-scented countryside and adorable small towns. Taking the winter train to Vermont was a popular getaway, immortalized in the 1954 musical "White Christmas." Ironically, that movie was released one year after passenger rail service to Burlington was terminated. Today, hordes of cold-weather vacationers pack up their cars and drive up to the Adirondacks or Green Mountains so they can shop for artisanal gifts, ski powdery slopes, and enjoy farm-to-table meals. A road trip through this part of New England is still considered a slice of heaven for any photographer.

When the Ethan Allen Express started running in the mid-1990s, it revived the dream of rail-based escapes. Weekenders could venture upstate to find activities in any season: hiking in the spring, swimming and boating in summer, and leaf peeping and apple-picking in the fall. Winter brings a special buffet of pastimes, though. Nearly all these towns have specialty shops and art galleries offering unique holiday gifts. The station in Rutland stands only 20 minutes by car from Killington, one of the most famous ski areas in Vermont. Burlington is a great home base for skiers in the north-central part of the state, although you'll have to drive an hour from the station to well-known resorts like Stowe or Smuggler's Notch. In late winter, the sugar houses kick into high gear, where travelers can see how maple syrup is made. For a surprising treat, try "sugar on snow," the Northeastern tradition of pouring heated syrup onto fresh snow to make a kind of rustic candy.

Where to stay along the Ethan Allen Express

All of the towns along the Ethan Allen Express have their own hotels, motels, and inns, so you should be able to find a place to stay (winter prices are generally lower than in the warmer months). Keep in mind that train stations tend to be located in the older town centers while the more budget-friendly accommodations are often on the outskirts. You may have decide which is better, price or convenience. Most of these communities are known for their walkable downtown areas, so you can easily explore places like Albany, Poughkeepsie, and Glens Falls on foot even in winter. There are exceptions, though, like the Vergennes-Ferrisburgh station, which is a half-hour walk from the Main Street commercial district.

The reigning champion is Burlington, with its centrally located Union Station. You can step off the train and stroll a few blocks to the waterfront or stroll a little farther to Church Street, a four-block pedestrian mall. Burlington also has a number of hotels downtown, costing $100 to $200 per night. Winter is a delightful time to visit, with lots of art centers, dining, and nightlife; but if you visit in the balmier months, consider a beautiful trail that's perfect for bike rides along an abandoned lakeside railroad.

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