A Little Known Beach In Rhode Island Is A Secluded Escape With New England Charm

As you drive along Park Avenue, navigating the gentle curves of the Rhode Island coast, you may spot a little crescent of sand and pebbles. Blink and you'll miss it; Teddy's Beach is only about 1,000 feet long, with a subtle shape and texture, barely visible from the road. The beaches in this part of Rhode Island tend to be small and known only to locals, such as quiet, pristine Goosewing Beach just 15 miles south. If you find yourself cruising down this quiet road in the state's southeast quarter, you may have Teddy's Beach mostly to yourself, even on a hot summer day.

The beach stands on the edge of Portsmouth, a sleepy little town on the northern edge of Aquidneck Island. The island is best known as the setting for Newport, a town famous for sailboats and mansions. In contrast, Portsmouth is understated; this town of around 17,000 people has a handful of restaurants and one motel. Much of the town's land forms a ring around Island Park Cove, which gives visitors the impression of a long, unfurling shore. Teddy's Beach is tucked into a narrow channel just south of Hope Bay, where it tapers into a small peninsula. Rows of businesses are scattered along Park Avenue, and this stretch of land is so narrow that you can gaze on two separate bodies of water, one for sunrise and the other for sunset. If Portsmouth has a "downtown" area, this is basically it.

Portsmouth doesn't have nearly the cachet of Newport or Providence, but residents tend to like it that way. Founded in 1638 by Roger Williams — who also established the colony of Rhode Island — Portsmouth is the second-oldest municipality in the state. This area has always been pretty quiet; Portsmouth was long known for shipbuilders and fishermen, and the latter tradition continues at the adjacent Rivers Edge Marina. Boating is far more popular here than time on the sand, but walking Teddy's Beach and dipping your toes in the salty shallows offers a perfect view of passing watercraft.

Portsmouth encompasses New England charm, with its quaint old houses and slow-moving motorways. Park Avenue is also a welcome surprise for cyclists, who can pedal along the seashore and make a pit stop at Teddy's Beach. Grab breakfast and kick back on an Adirondack chair at Sunset Cove, an art gallery and performance venue that stands directly across the road from Teddy's Beach. Stick around town long enough, and you can grab dinner and drinks at Tremblay's Bar and Grill, Schooners Bar and Beer Garden, or Localz Kitchen and Cocktails, which are all within a short walk of the beach. If you're already exploring Rhode Island's breathtaking coast on a beach-filled road trip, this slice of Portsmouth offers a down-home alternative to the Ocean State's busier spots.

The most unusual landmark is a rocky abutment on the northern edge of Teddy's Beach. Formerly known as Stone Bridge, this bascule bridge was critically damaged in a hurricane in 1954 and is now only an empty shipping lane with two foundations on either side. Local government has been eager to replace or revitalize this span; in the meantime, this is a popular spot for casting reels.

Like most island towns, Portsmouth is a little tricky to get to, but every route that gets you here is beautiful. Some will come up from Newport, which means crossing the Jamestown Verrazano Bridge and Claiborne Pell Newport Bridge. Together, these motorways cross the legendary Narragansett Bay. Historic Newport is packed with sailing, shopping, and nightlife, which is why this New England city was named the top U.S. city for buying a vacation home. Getting to Portsmouth means a pleasant drive through rural Aquidneck Island, and, while you're out here, maybe a spontaneous tasting at Newport Vineyards, one of New England's largest wineries. You can also approach from the East Bay by crossing the 285-foot-tall Mt. Hope Bridge.

A large number of Rhode Island visitors arrive by car, often as part of a long road trip through the Northeast. If you're flying, you'll likely land at T.F. Greene, an easy-to-navigate airport that takes the crown as one of America's best. There is technically a public bus route from Providence to Portsmouth, and you can get fairly close to Teddy's Beach in a reasonable 45 minutes, if you don't mind walking an additional half-hour from the bus stop. Most people will prefer to drive, and the airport has plenty of rental car services. The same goes for stays: Newport and Providence are thick with accommodations, so plan to make Portsmouth a day trip rather than a destination.