A Coastal Town In Croatia Is Steeped In Pirate Lore, Stunning Landscapes, And Natural Scenery
Croatia's magical coast is made for wild adventures and dramatic storytelling. Its rugged Adriatic coastline is a tangle of sheer cliffs, tiny bays, rocky inlets, and tiny islands, with fascinating sights and exciting experiences hidden around every corner. It is easy to imagine it as a land of myth, legend, and tall tales, from its position on the fringes of Greek and Roman antiquity to its status as a lawless, renegade hiding spot, caught between the doges of Venice, the Habsburg and Austro-Hungarian emperors, and the sultans of Ottoman Turkey.
The big names of the Croatian coast — Hvar and Dubrovnik — are world-famous, but there are countless hidden gems just waiting to be discovered by eager adventurers. One such town is Omis, a gorgeous port town with a fascinating history steeped in pirate lore and surrounded by some of the best of Croatia's natural beauty. Omis lies southeast of the seriously underrated city of Split at the mouth of the River Cetina, and hidden behind the island of Brac, the home of Zlatni Rat, Croatia's Caribbean-like Golden Horn beach. The mouth of the river forms a natural harbor that played a significant role in the town's history. Omis is about 25 miles from Split Airport, a drive that takes just over an hour by car or taxi, and about two hours by bus.
Dashing corsair forts and historic churches in Omis
The remarkable history of Omis revolves around the Corsairs of Almissa, pirates who used the town as a base for raids up and down the surrounding coastline, as well as exacting tolls on ships passing through the channel between Omis and Brac. Some histories make reference to pirate activity in and out of Omis as far back as Greek and Roman times, but the height of their power was in the 10th, 11th, and 12th centuries. The Corsairs of Almissa owed their success to specially designed boats known as sagittas (arrows), which were able to navigate the shallower waters of the River Cetina and hide upstream, protected by the surrounding mountains.
The most obvious symbol of a piratical past in Omis is the Mirabella Fortress. Built in the 13th century, it was the stronghold of the pirates of Omis, doubling up as a watchtower and defensive fortification. Exploring the fortress lets you walk in the footsteps of history, and offers spectacular views over the sea and out to Brac. The Starigrad Fortress is also worth a look, further out of town on top of a nearby mountain. This was built later, after the pirates had been rooted out by an alliance between Venice and the Papacy.
Alongside these stark, brutal monuments, Omis has plenty of more peaceful, historic charm. The town itself is picturesque, a cluster of traditional stone houses nestled in the shadow of the surrounding hills. It is filled with a surprising number of beautiful religious buildings, including an 18th-century Franciscan monastery, the 16th-century Church of the Holy Spirit, and the sixth-century Church of St Euphemia.
The best of Croatia's great outdoors
Omis is a wonderful destination for fans of the great outdoors and a showcase of some of the best landscapes and scenery that Croatia has to offer. The Cetina River is one of the most beautiful places in Croatia and an amazing route for boat and paddle expeditions, offering spectacular canyons and gentle rapids, surrounded by lush, forested hills, as well as a few secluded riverside restaurants that are perfect for a mid-expedition lunch.
The surrounding backcountry offers incredible hiking routes, with a brilliant network of trails taking on the peaks of the Mosor and Biokovo Mountains. The out-and-back route from Borak to Kula offers unbelievable views over the channel and across Brač Island, while Leopold Mandić's Educational Path offers something a little different, with the chance to explore the local wildlife, flora, and geological features along the way. Slightly further afield, there are several coastal routes that start and end at Dugi Rat.
For beach lovers, Omis is a dream. Boasting some of Croatia's most beautiful stretches of sand, the town is ideal for a beach holiday or as a base for exploring the many hidden coves and bays just a stone's throw away. Velika Plaža (Great Beach), Golubinka, and Ravnice are beautiful public beaches within easy walking distance of the old town center, while Artina, Sumpetar, and Ruskamen are perfect for anyone looking for seclusion and secrecy, surrounded by pine forest and impressive cliffs.