This Uncrowded Island Town Off The East Coast Is Brimming With New England Charm

It can be hard to dodge the crowds along the coastline of Maine during the summer once the long days and the warm sunshine arrive. On U.S. Route 1, you can drive up the coast, from Portland to Bar Harbor, to catch some of the most breathtaking views in New England. But if you have some extra time — or, better yet, a few extra days — you should catch the ferry to North Haven. The adorable, quiet village just might be the highlight of your trip to the Pine Tree State.

North Haven is located about halfway up the coast of Maine. The island, along with Vinalhaven and a handful of smaller islets, is part of the Fox Islands in Penobscot Bay. The large bay, which is 40 miles long and 15 miles wide, is considered the heart of cruising in Maine. It has more than 200 islands that are accessible only by water.

Ferries connect the larger islands to the mainland. After driving nearly two hours north of Portland – one of the underrated cities in the Northern U.S. you shouldn't skip visiting – you can ride the "Captain Neal Burgess" between Rockland and North Haven (peak rates are $23 for adults, $15 for minors, and $55 for vehicles with reservations available 30 days in advance). By the time the ferry pulls into the North Haven terminal about an hour later, the salty sea air will have melted all of your stress away.

Settle into the island town of North Haven

North Haven is the name of both the island and its town. From the ferry, you can see the heart of town with its clapboard houses clustered close together near the water. They are filled with an art gallery, a gift shop, a small lodge, and a handful of family-friendly restaurants. All of the businesses are seasonal, since fewer than 400 people live on the island year-round. The North Haven Baptist Church, the only church on the island, sits a block inland. They all overlook the Fox Island Thoroughfare with Vinalhaven, a larger island, in the distance. Lobster boats, as well as sailboats in every size imaginable, are anchored in the deep-water passage.

If you are staying on the island, your first stop should be Nebo Lodge to drop off luggage. Unless you are renting a house or the single campsite at Turner Farm, the also-seasonal, nine-room inn (from $185 per night) has the only accommodations on the island. When you check in, you can make dinner reservations for their restaurant, whose constantly changing menu focuses on local produce.

Then, as you walk through town, you can buy chocolates and sweatshirts at the North Haven Gift Shop. The Hopkins Wharf Gallery, focused on the Fox Islands, regularly changes its exhibitions. The North Haven Brewing Company has brown ales and India pale ales on tap, and you can sip on a pint in their tap room.

Explore the rest of the island

Once you have settled into the slow pace along the sea, you should explore the rest of the island. If you left your car on the mainland, you can rent a bicycle at North Haven Rentals. Since the island is small — just 9 miles long by 3 miles wide, you can easily pedal around it in a day. Head north to visit the North Haven Historical Museum and Archives. The free museum has exhibits about farming and fishing on the island.

Around Pulpit Harbor, you will find the Pulpit Rock Point Hiking Trail and the "Cabotville" bunch of cottages. Both have great views of the calm harbor. Also be sure to book a farm tour at North Haven Oyster Company. It includes a cruise on Fresh Pond and a shucking lesson. You will not want to miss a barn supper at Turner Farm, as well. The organic farm hosts family-style dinners throughout the summer.

Since you are already on the Fox Islands, you can easily visit Vinalhaven before you leave. The water taxi at Brown's Boatyard (one way is $8 per person, round trip is $10) connects the two islands. Be sure to check out Lawson's Quarry, a hidden swimming hole with granite ledges and glassy waters, while exploring the larger island.

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