Rick Steves Recommends This Greek 'Anti-Resort' Village For A Relaxing Coastal Getaway
Greece has long been one of the most glamorous and sought-after European destinations for adventurous travelers. That said, it is also fair to say that some parts of this wonderful country suffer from overtourism. Whether it's the queues to get the perfect Instagram shot or rugged coastlines filled with cut-and-paste resort hotels, Greece's natural beauty can sometimes be obscured by the many travelers who come to see it.
Luckily for anyone searching for something a little different, European travel expert Rick Steves has the answer — and it's one of the best destinations across Europe for people who hate crowds. The Mani Peninsula is known for offering a more authentic Greek vacation experience than many of the country's more famous islands, thanks to its atmospheric sea caves, beautiful Byzantine churches, and rocky coves. In particular, Steves suggests the village of Kardamyli as the ideal base to explore the area. Kardamyli is "the gateway to the Mani Peninsula and its best home base," he says. "It's an anti-resort that delicately mixes chic hotels and conscientious travelers with real-world Greece."
Kardamyli is located on the western coast of the Outer Mani, the northern half of the peninsula. Part of the area's charm is how far from the modern world it is, but this does make it a little tricky to get to. You could take a ferry from Italy to the port of Patras, or from Athens to Gythion, before taking a car, taxi, or bus towards Kardamyli. The nearest airport is Kalamata, which is just under an hour's drive away by car.
What to see and do around Kardamyli
Kardamyli has been around for thousands of years, and it has always been considered one of the jewels of the Peloponnese region. In ancient Greek myth, Agamemnon offered Kardamyli to Achilles to attempt to persuade him to fight in the Trojan War. These days, it is one of the loveliest beach towns in Greece, a cluster of centuries-old stone houses overlooking glittering turquoise waters and backed by lush forested hills. Rick Steves waxes lyrical about the "locals-only mom-and-pop shops [that] mingle with trendy tourist boutiques," all overlooked by the imposing bulk of the Mourtzinos Tower. The village is dotted with similar eye-catching 'tower houses,' originally built to protect residents from pirate raids and Ottoman invaders. Today, many have been converted into fabulous guesthouses and chic hotels.
There's plenty to do here, both around the village and further afield. The Outer Mani is full of stunning towns and rolling hillsides covered in olive groves. Meanwhile, Ritsa Beach is just a 15-minute walk from the Old Town, and the surrounding hills offer excellent hiking trails with some beautiful panoramic views over the Ionian Sea. Further down the coast, the charming village of Stoupa is also worth a visit, with its picturesque crescent harbor and excellent beachside bars and restaurants.
Mythical experiences on the Mani Peninsula
The southern end of the Mani Peninsula, known as the Deep Mani, is where things get really exciting. This remains one of Europe's wilder, less-explored regions, and there's adventure to be found around every corner.
The highlight of the Deep Mani is a journey beneath the surface of the Earth, through the underground river network that fills the Diros Caves. On a private punt with your own personal ferryman, you'll feel as close to the world of Hades and Persephone as it is possible to be. And this isn't the only otherworldly experience the Deep Mani hides. At the far south of the peninsula lies Cape Tenaro, which splits the Ionian from the Aegean Sea — this is said to be mythical location of the gates of Hades, where Hercules defeated the three–headed dog Cerberus.
As well as these sites of legend, the Deep Mani offers a wealth of quaint, traditional villages, each dotted with those iconic stone tower houses, as well as a handful of gorgeous Byzantine churches, their recognizable domes covered in bright, vivid ceiling paintings in the unique Orthodox style. The dramatic scenery makes a drive south an unmissable experience, as you explore the rugged coast and picture-perfect pebble beaches that make the Mani Peninsula one of Greece's most underrated regions.