Iceland's Second-Largest City Is A Unique Escape With Geothermal Hot Springs Year-Round
Iceland's natural landscapes give an otherworldly impression: bright molten lava bubbling and splashing out of a black volcanic peak, long white waterfalls cascading into turquoise pools surrounded by dark charcoal-gray stones, geysers blasting mist high in the air, and lonely two-lane roads weaving through vast, hilly countryside. Just below the Arctic Circle, it's literally known as The Land of Fire and Ice, and staring at the dramatic landscape, it's easy to imagine a mythical giant stepping out from behind a mountain peak or emerging from the ocean and onto the black sand beaches.
For being a tiny island in the middle of the Atlantic, it's a booming tourist country these days, and for good reason. That natural beauty is a bucket-list draw. Iceland has the modern infrastructure to handle the influx — and is one of the safest countries in the world to visit. Most trips center around Reykjavík, the cultural hub with cozy restaurants, innovative cuisine, and a thriving arts scene. But beyond the city lies the 820-mile Ring Road that circles the island and connects travelers to all the natural wonders Iceland has to offer.
One stop along the northern section, not far from Godafoss Waterfall and Lake Mývatn, is Iceland's second-largest city: Akureyri. Pronounced "AH-koo-ray-ree," with the stress on the first syllable "AH," the city is situated at the base of Eyjafjörður, Iceland's longest fjord. Akureyri is known as 'the capital of the north' and has a vibrant cultural life with museums, quality restaurants, traffic lights in the shape of red hearts, and fun seasonal festivals. It's the perfect destination to explore deeper into Iceland's north by day, returning in the evening to lie back in hot springs, gazing at the ethereal Northern Lights in winter, or basking in the midnight sun during summer.
Getting to know Akureyri, Iceland's second-largest city
Despite being way in the north, Akureyri's roots trace back to around A.D. 890, linking it closely to Iceland's viking past. Although it's the second-largest city, Akureyri has a population of just around 19,000 people, so the designation "city" may seem unusual. About 230 miles from Reykjavík, there's a domestic flight between the two, but the five-hour drive is probably the better move, because Iceland is best explored via road trip, according to travel pro Rick Steves.
There's no wrong time to visit. Summer has long days and the hills shine green, but winter is a snowy wonderland with more opportunities to see the Northern Lights — prepare for this type of weather no matter when you visit. For accommodation, there are many options, from the modern Berjaya Iceland Hotel and the centrally-located Hotel Kea to Akureyri Backpackers, which has a restaurant where you can grab a reindeer burger and fries.
For Icelandic cuisine, there's the cozy Bautinn, while Strikið has Nordic sushi variations with harbor views, and downtown is littered with more cozy cafes, dining spots, boutiques, and souvenir shops. Be sure to stop by the towering and modern Akureyrarkirkja Church (designed by the same architect as the Hallgrimskirkja in Reykjavík), and the neighboring studios, shops, and museum on "Art Street," formally known as Kaupvangsstræti. But Iceland is geographically where two tectonic plates meet, creating fissures and rifts, and causing magma to rise from the Earth's mantle, heating groundwater that then surfaces to become a hot spring.
Hot springs and making the most of a trip to the 'Capital of the North'
Right in town, there are the Akureyri Geothermal Pools, where locals and visitors alike unwind in naturally heated water surrounded by mountain views. Just five minutes beyond the city, there's the Forest Lagoon nestled in a hill with panoramic views. Relaxation meets local brewing 25 minutes north at the Beer Spa in Árskógssandur — with beer-infused water. Another 25-minute drive and there's Hauganes, with simple seaside hot tubs overlooking the fjord, ideal for a quiet, no-frills soak with a stunning backdrop.
While in the north of Iceland, it's important to explore by taking a day trip to a place like Lake Mývatn. Perfect for nature lovers, take a hike and check out the bubbling mud pools before relaxing in the geothermal Mývatn Nature Baths. Another must-see close by is the quaint fishing village Húsavík, an ideal spot for whale watching. And you cannot go to the area without visiting the breathtaking Godafoss Waterfall. Rent a car and cruise on your own timetable, or let a guide take care of the details and go on the five-hour tour that explores the waterfall and ends back in the hot springs of The Forest Lagoon, just outside of Akureyri. No matter the time of year you go, be sure to learn the Icelandic phrase: "takk fyrir síðast," meaning "thank you for that last time." It's what Icelanders say after a particularly good gathering to acknowledge that they truly enjoyed it.