Rick Steves Calls This Charming Town In The Netherlands An 'Idyllic Mini-Amsterdam'
"Amsterdam, Rotterdam, the Hague — those are all in Holland, right?" Yes, but if you can name three cities in the Netherlands, Delft probably won't come to mind. This town of about 100,000 people was once a fortified city and major commercial hub, and revered painter Johannes Vermeer called it home in the 17th century. Today, Delft feels more like a historic suburb; given time, you could theoretically walk there from the Hague's waterfront, but it doesn't have nearly the same notoriety. Delft isn't a place where international court hearings are held. Delft has no infamous red light district, like Amsterdam. Delft isn't the continent's busiest port, like Rotterdam.
These are all reasons many travelers love Delft. Quaint and cobbled streets run through the center, and boats ease through a gorgeous canal system. The well-preserved architecture is classically Dutch, yet you don't have to fight through crowds to see it. Delft has world-class museums, scenic bridges, and more bike lanes than you could ride in a week, all within a compact, walkable community that has straddled the Schie River for nearly 1,000 years.
One of Delft's greatest admirers is travel expert Rick Steves, who lists it among his top destinations when traveling in the Netherlands. As Steves' blog summarizes: "Peaceful as a Vermeer painting and as lovely as its porcelain, Delft has a special soul. It feels like an idyllic mini-Amsterdam ... urban Holland with training wheels. Enjoy this typically Dutch, 'I could live here' town best by simply wandering around, munching syrup waffles, people-watching, and daydreaming on the canal bridges."
Best things to do in Delft
Like Steves says, the best way to enjoy Delft is to just walk around. The city has long been famous for its porcelain production, and you can view a vast collection of glazed white ceramics in the Royal Delft Museum, which is based in a former factory. The most celebrated local figure is Vermeer, the Old Master painter revered for his realistic portraits and dynamic lighting. At Vermeer Centrum Delft, you may be amazed how many paintings you recognize. Many originals, like "Girl with the Pearl Earring," are located elsewhere, but informational plaques and guided tours help visitors understand the life and times of the city's most creative native son.
"If you love Vermeer's quiet, exquisite paintings," writes Steves, "you understand why it's said that the painter's muse was his hometown of Delft." Few of Delft's brick facades date back to Vermeer's day, but there are notable exceptions: the medieval Oude Kerk (Old Church) was finished in the 13th century, and the artist likely witnessed the construction of the stone Koornbeurs House, a storage and trading center.
Akin to Utrecht, a breathtaking canal city that's one of the world's most bicycle-friendly destinations, Delft benefits from the Netherlands' exhaustive cycling infrastructure. Rent a bike from one of a dozen local shops or inquire at your hotel. The miles of lanes, paths, and medieval streets make for blissful riding during the warmer months, and you can roll over Delft's level landscape for miles without breaking a sweat. In between its major landmarks, you can duck into any number of bistros and cafes for a gourmet bite.
Visiting Delft and where to stay
The largest airport in the Netherlands is Schiphol International, right outside Amsterdam, and most global travelers will arrive here, especially from the US. This isn't close to Delft, by Dutch standards, but neither is it far: Public transit usually takes about an hour, and you can drive a rental car in about 45 minutes, although one of the great benefits of visiting the Netherlands is that driving isn't considered necessary.
The old city is thick with hotels, and you can usually secure a room for less than $100 per night, even in summer. This also places you in the middle of the action, so you can walk to major sites with ease. Bigger cities like Amsterdam offer more options, but also get more competitive, as art enthusiasts and cafe-seeking hippies pour into the city. The Netherlands' comfort, culture, and safety are two reasons Steves says this country is a perfect place to start your European tour.
Nightlife is clustered in the old city, right alongside most hotels, which makes for easy bar-hopping. A point of pride is Delft Blue Gin, and local bartenders will appreciate the chance to mix it into cocktails. Like Amsterdam, Delft has lax cannabis laws, and a handful of reefer-friendly "coffeeshops" are a popular attraction.