Rick Steves Recommends This Vibrant European Capital For A Walkable, Car-Free Getaway
Driving in a sprawling capital city can be inconvenient at best and nerve-wracking at worst. Madrid, Spain's thriving capital, has spent years cutting car traffic in its central neighborhoods, resulting in pedestrian-friendly streets, easy bike rentals, and cheap, reliable public transportation. As the city grew, it invested in revitalizing its older districts, turning "worn-out areas into trendy zones," according to Rick Steves. The travel guru loves that visitors can spend hours exploring on foot, stopping for tapas at lively terraces, or watching the sunset from Parque de la Montaña, a hilltop park overlooking the city with a genuine Egyptian temple.
Begin touring this stunning Spanish destination at Calle del Arenal, a bustling pedestrian street lined with distinctive shops, from Sabor a España (which sells gourmet Spanish treats) to Rosa Clará (an internationally known bridal boutique that also sells party dresses). Continue along Calle de las Huertas to the Prado, one of Madrid's world-class art museums, pausing at tapas bars along the way. Book lovers will enjoy Cuesta de Moyano, another car-free street, where at least 30 open-air bookstalls have been selling secondhand and antique volumes for a century.
Madrid's food, art, and outdoor highlights
It's hard to go wrong eating in Madrid, but Rick Steves points to Calle de Jesús as a must for a tapas crawl, calling it an "edible scavenger hunt." This pedestrian street is packed with bars serving caipirinhas, croquettes, paella, and jamón ibérico. For a wider variety, the Mercado de San Miguel is a covered food hall where you can sample everything from oysters and cava to cones filled with different meats for a quick bite. Take in sweeping city views at rooftop favorite Casa Suecia, and for dessert, join the crowds at historic Chocolatería San Ginés for churros with chocolate and coffee. For a spot with fewer tourists, Churrería La Andaluza is a favorite among locals.
Madrid's renowned art scene centers on the "Golden Triangle of Art" — three museums filled with spectacular paintings from around Europe and beyond. The Prado is home to European classics from the 12th through 20th centuries, including works by Goya and Velázquez. For 20th-century highlights, including Picasso's "Guernica," head to Museo Reina Sofía. Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza offers a more intimate experience (though, it's still huge!), with a private collection that covers a broad range of periods and styles, plus a chic terrace café for a post-museum drink.
Outside of art, Retiro Park is famous for its rowboats, but it's also perfect for a picnic. Grab sandwiches from Longhi's Focacceria or Olsen Sandwich and enjoy them under the trees. For something sweet, Spanish frozen yogurt chain Llaollao has a location just outside the park. Active travelers can head to Casa de Campo, a former royal hunting estate with over 4,000 acres filled with trails, tennis courts, canoe rentals, and even an aquarium and amusement park.
Essential travel tips for visiting Madrid
Arrive to Madrid stress-free by taking the overnight train from Lisbon or one of the high-speed trains from France. For other routes, the best way to country-hop is by flying into Madrid-Barajas Airport. The city's public transit network makes getting downtown simple, with direct train service from the airport to central stations. Accommodations range widely: Hostels and budget hotels run about $25 to $60 per night, while mid-range hotels in central neighborhoods typically cost $80 to $150.
Spring and fall are the best seasons to visit, with lighter crowds, temperatures hovering around 55 (in fall) to 70 degrees (in spring), and most local businesses open (many Madrileños close up shop in the summer, particularly in August). On May 15, Madrid celebrates its patron saint with the San Isidro Festival, a lively street party featuring music, folk dancing, costumes, food stalls, and fireworks. For wine lovers, mid-October brings Las Vendimias de Ortega y Gasset, when more than 40 wineries transform one of the city's most elegant streets into a festive open-air tasting hall. No matter what time of year you visit, Madrid will welcome you. As Rick Steves wrote on his website, "After every trip to this exciting city, the impression I take home is that of a thriving people with an enduring culture and an irresistible love of life."