New Hampshire's White Mountains Boast A Captivating And Adventurous Alpine Hiking Loop

When it comes to hiking in New England, nothing beats the White Mountains of New Hampshire. While the Whites have long been a destination for vacationers to beat the summer heat, hiking tourism has skyrocketed since the pandemic. It's easy to see why! There are so many amazing options to choose from. But for those backpackers looking for a captivating and adventurous alpine hike, the Pemigewasset Loop ticks all the boxes as one of the greatest hikes in all of New England.

The Pemigewasset Wilderness, known locally as "The Pemi", is a 45,000 acre wilderness tucked into the heart of the scenic White Mountain National Forest. The Pemi contains over 60 miles of maintained trails, 32 of which make up the iconic loop trail that summits some of New Hampshire's most beautiful mountains. 

Owing to the fact that the loop comprises eight peaks over 4,000 feet, over 9,000 feet of elevation gain, and several sections of tricky terrain, this is not a trail for beginner-level backpackers. However, it does serve as something of an intermediary before undertaking more challenging hikes in the region, such as the Presidential Peaks Traverse, or the Long Trail in neighboring Vermont. Many consider the Pemi Loop as a proving ground before making their way to more challenging hikes. And anyone who has completed the Pemi will tell you that the effort was well worth it. 

While there are some intense through-hikers who take on the challenge of completing the Pemi Loop in a single day, most backpackers will take two to four days to make the entire loop. We recommend taking the trail in later summer, or early fall if you want some outstanding foliage. 

Gear needed for a standard, multi-day hike include a hiking backpack, tent, sleeping bag, food, clothing layers, bottled water and water filter, first-aid, socks, hiking boots, rain gear, sun protection, and trekking poles to help with some of the steeper bits. The weather is notoriously moody in the White Mountains. You can go from clear and sunny one minute, to wind and thunderstorms the next. It's worth being prepared for snow as well, especially if hiking later in the fall. 

There are three, first-come-first-served campsites along the loop: Liberty Springs, Garfield Ridge, and Guyot. These are maintained by the Appalachian Mountain Club, and come with wooden platforms to keep you off the ground. The AMC also maintains several well-equipped huts in the White Mountains. The chief one for the Pemi Loop is the Galehead Hut. Rates average $155/night, but you will be staying in a proper bed with various amenities, including composting toilets and prepared meals. The AMC even has a condensed, guided, version of this hike that runs between three of their huts, a truly great option if you'd rather not camp. 

The Pemi Loop begins and ends at the Lincoln Woods trailhead off the Kancamagus Highway. Make sure to stop by the ranger station for a map and quick advice before making your way onto the trail. We recommend taking the trail counterclockwise, as it begins with an easy-going five-mile walk along the east branch of the Pemigewasset River. From there to the first night stop at Guyot Campsite, you will encounter steep elevation toward the first two peaks of the trail: Bondcliff and Mount Bond. These two peaks offer astounding views of the lower valleys and notches, providing you a taste of what's to come.

And what's to come is the outstandingly beautiful hike along Franconia Ridge. This is the section of the Pemi that meets up with the Appalachian Trail and forms its most alpine section. Here you are well above the tree line and have 360-degree views of the surrounding wilderness. You'll summit the following peaks: Gale, Garfield, Lafayette, Lincoln, Little Haystack, Liberty, and Flume.

While these ridges are incredibly scenic, the steep terrain can be tricky. Go slow, and exercise caution when necessary. The descent from Flume is a straight elevation loss of nearly 3,000 feet back to the parking lot at Lincoln Woods. Split over several days, this is one New Hampshire adventure you won't be forgetting anytime soon.