Rick Steves Recommends Visiting A Vibrant Gem He Calls The 'Fastest-Changing City In Europe'

In the decades following the collapse of the Soviet Union and fall of the Iron Curtain, things have changed significantly for almost every Eastern European country. In some cases, this has been a boom for tourism, with previously underexplored spots opening up and becoming fascinating and beautiful bucket list destinations. Gorgeous cities like Prague and Budapest are some of the best places to visit for budget travelers, and have flourished in the last few decades to become some of the most interesting and exciting to visit in Europe. 

Slovakia, however, fell between the cracks after casting off Communism and gaining independence. Overshadowed by its larger neighbors, it was very much the less-successful sibling to the Czech Republic. Its capital city, Bratislava, suffered hugely by comparison to other Eastern European capitals, and for years after the so-called 'Velvet Divorce' (when the Czech Republic and Slovakia separated), it was a run-down and dangerous place. However, according to European travel guru Rick Steves, Bratislava is now "one of Europe's great urban success stories," and one of the most underrated European cities to visit. He says that although "a decade ago, the city center was grim, deserted, and dangerous — a place where only thieves and fools dared to tread ... today it's downright charming, bursting with colorfully restored facades, lively outdoor cafés, swanky boutiques, and in-love-with-life locals".

Bratislava sits on the banks of Europe's largest river, the Danube, up against borders with Austria and Hungary. Its international airport is just on the outskirts of the city, about six miles from the center, and is connected by a trolleybus which takes about 20 minutes. Vienna, the capital of Austria, is also nearby, about 50 minutes by train and just over an hour by car.

Steves describes Bratislava as formerly a "nearly desolate ghost town", but today it's "arguably the fastest-changing city in Europe". The arrival of low-cost airlines to the airport in 2005 opened up the city to international tourists, and Bratislava is now a dynamic, vibrant, and attractive place to visit. Steves says "its compact old town bursts with colorfully restored facades, lively outdoor cafes, and swanky boutiques [while] its ramshackle industrial quarter, just east of the center, is rapidly being redeveloped into a forest of skyscrapers". 

For visitors, the old town is the best place to start. It might not have the stand-out, iconic highlights of other European capitals, but there's plenty to see and do. The maze of winding, medieval cobbled streets and charming, faded pastel houses is perfect for a gentle stroll, while sights like the Blue Church and Primate's Palace are well worth a look. Don't forget to keep an eye open for the curious statues dotted around the place, including Cumil, a Communist-era sewer worker popping out of a manhole to spy on pedestrians. 

The magnificent white castle on top of the hill overlooking the city is another major highlight of Bratislava. Its beautiful Baroque gardens are exquisite, while the Slovak National Museum inside is a fascinating look at the history of the country and Slovak people. The Treasury is also a delight, filled with incredible gold and silver pieces that showcase the craftsmanship of local artisans. But the most impressive thing about the castle is the views. This is possibly the only castle in the world where you can see three countries at once, and the sweeping panoramic vista from the top of the rock takes in the city, the Little Carpathian Mountains, and even Vienna on a clear day!

Steves describes Bratislava as "the yang to Vienna's yin ... a vivacious young professional jet-setting around Europe", and there's certainly a vibrant, exciting atmosphere in the life of the city. The main square, Hlavné Námestie, is filled with delightful cafes and bars, and it's almost mandatory to start your day in Bratislava with a coffee in one of the excellent coffee shops like Verne, Antik, or Mondieu. 

Eating in Bratislava has also undergone a revolution, and the culinary scene has taken off in the last few years. Steves recommends the Old Market Hall, which is a wonderful place for modern, trendy street food stalls, as well as wine bars and gelato stands. Restaurant Albrecht near the castle is one of the most sophisticated spots in the city, a wonderful fine-dining experience with both tasting menus and a la carte options. Konditorei Kormuth is absolutely stunning, a cafe covered in faux-Renaissance frescoes and murals and filled with eye-catching antiques. It's also worth visiting UFO, the teetering, alien-like structure perched on top of the Novy Most Bridge, for a truly extraordinary sunset and a diverse menu to match. 

Bratislava is also a great place to explore after dark with a buzzy, eclectic nightlife. You can get a taste of classic Slovak beer culture at Bratislavský Meštiansky Pivovar, Stupavar, or Slovak Pub, or try unusual and intriguing cocktails at Urban House or the Casa del Havana. If you want to get your dancing shoes on, try the boxing ring dancefloor at Aligator Crystal, or the dark, fast techno stylings of Fuga.