Rick Steves Calls One Of Britain's Best & Oldest Stone Circles A 'mini-Stonehenge'
Britain is an ancient and mysterious country, filled with spots where you can feel the weight of history in the air. From eerie coastal villages and haunted forests to legendary monsters and stunning Gothic castles, Britain's combination of history, myth, and magic is a huge part of what makes it such an attractive vacation destination.
Some of the most atmospheric places to go if you want to immerse yourself in the mystical vibes of ancient Britain are the island's remarkable and often inexplicable stone circles. The most famous of these is Stonehenge, a massive Neolithic structure of breathtaking concentric rings made from vast sandstone rocks. However, while Stonehenge is undeniably magnificent, particularly during summer solstice celebrations, it's an extremely popular tourist destination, meaning you will inevitably be sharing the experience with crowds of other visitors. Scattered across the country, however, are plenty of alternatives to Stonehenge that are less of a tourist trap. According to renowned European travel expert Rick Steves, one of the best and oldest of these mini-Stonehenges is the Castlerigg Stone Circle in the Lake District.
According to Steves, "while Castlerigg is just off the main road near the town of Keswick, it feels a world away". Despite this secluded feel, it's relatively accessible, just a five-minute drive from the center of the charming market town of Keswick. Keswick itself is about an-hour-and-45-minutes from Newcastle International Airport and two hours from Manchester International Airport, and you can arrive from London on a three-hour train to Penrith, followed by a 40-minute bus ride.
Ancient standing stones and Druidic rituals
A huge part of the magic of Castlerigg comes from its enviable location. Set on a low hill, it's surrounded by some of the most impressive landscapes Britain has to offer, with the commanding and dramatic peaks of Skiddaw, Helvellyn, Grassmoor, and Cat Bells forming a stunning panorama. Steves describes how "with each visit [he] marvels at how the stones line up with the surrounding mountain peaks", a testament to the ancient wisdom of Castlerigg's mysterious creators.
Another aspect of its charm is the air of mystery and uncertainty surrounding the site. Castlerigg is one of Britain's oldest megalithic sites, with the 38 free-standing stones dating back to the Neolithic period between four and five thousand years ago. Beyond that, very little is known about the origins of the place, or what it was originally created for, or used as.
Steves leans in to the idea that it was a place of Druidic ritual, stating "I like to imagine this setting when ancient people filled the clearing in spring to celebrate fertility, in late summer to commemorate the harvest, and in the winter to mark the winter solstice and the coming renewal of light". Certainly, the stones' positions indicate they were aligned with the sun, moon, and stars, and it's possible that they were used as an astronomical observatory or for religious ceremonies. But experts have also found artifacts that indicate it may have had a more functional, prosaic purpose, as a trading post.
Poetic inspiration, amazing hikes, and gourmet dining
Whatever its original function, there's no denying Castlerigg is a gorgeous, evocative, and deeply spiritual spot, whether you visit during the solstice or not. Over the years, it has inspired writers and poets, from Samuel Taylor Coleridge and William Wordsworth to Gothic novelist Ann Radcliffe. And the "awful wildness" of the surrounding area that Ann Radcliffe describes puts the finishing touch on a visit to Castlerigg. No visit to the Lake District would be complete without immersing yourself in the uncompromising natural beauty of the area, and the best way to do that is with a hike.
From Keswick, there's a delightfully easy 4.5-mile route that takes you from the exquisite retro charm of the Alhambra cinema in the center of town, out to Castlerigg Stone Circle, via a disused railway track, offering jaw-droppingly beautiful views of the surrounding fells. More adventurous hikers might want to take on Cat Bells, or even head for the peak of Skiddaw itself. Either way, walking through the mist-covered landscape is guaranteed to give you the feeling of having stepped back in time, and have you seeing druids and ancient tribes around every corner.
Keswick itself is a wonderful place to rest and relax after a long hike, filled with cozy, traditional pubs and excellent restaurants. The Wainwright pub is a CAMRA favorite, right in the center of town, serving up hearty meals and hand-pulled real ales, while the Dog and Gun is a must for dog walkers. Serious foodies may want to try out the Michelin-starred Cottage in the Woods, just outside town, for a mouthwatering menu in a picture-perfect setting.