Rick Steves Says This Is The Ultimate Hike In England's Lake District, Despite The Weather

Despite being a fairly small island covered for much of the year in drizzle, cloud, and fog, Britain sports very impressive natural beauty. From the Highlands of Scotland, the most beautiful country in the world, to the dramatic white limestone cliffs of southern England, this windswept isle is a treasure trove of spectacular landscapes, and the perfect vacation destination for outdoor adventurers. 

For hikers and hill walkers, one spot in England stands head and shoulders above the rest: the mountain peaks of the Lake District National Park. European travel expert Rick Steves describes the region as "a land where humanity takes a few steps back and looks on as nature rules". It's wild and rugged, a landscape of jagged peaks, rocky ridges, sweeping valleys, and mist-covered hills, punctuated by glassy, slate-grey lakes, verdant greenery, ancient stone walls, and plenty of curious sheep. There are stunning hiking trails and walking routes crisscrossing the entirety of the Lake District, but for Steves, one stands out: Cat Bells above Keswick.

Keswick is in the mesmerizing northern part of the Lake District, situated near Derwentwater, one of Steves' favorite lakes. He describes the northern lakes as "every bit as scenic, with nowhere near the crowds" of the more popular spots like Windermere and Coniston. Despite its wild and remote feel, Keswick is relatively accessible. Newcastle International Airport is around one hour and 45 minutes away by car, while Manchester International Airport takes two hours. Trains take passengers from London to Penrith in three hours, and the town is then a 40-minute bus ride away.

Cat Bells fell looms over Derwentwater, "one of the area's most photographed and popular lakes," according to Steves. The hill comes with serious elevation, with the summit topping out at 1,480 feet, but the 3.5-mile loop trail isn't too challenging, described as "moderate" by Visit Keswick. The hike itself takes around three hours, although you are likely to be on your feet for longer as you stop for breaks and take in the magnificent views of Skiddaw, Newlands Valley, and Derwentwater. 

The best piece of advice Steves has for anyone looking to hike Cat Bells is to ignore the weather. "Don't wait for it to get better", he says, as "blustery winds and wet skies are part of the scene". Certainly, the dark clouds, thundery gusts, and iron sky add a level of drama to the hike, and as Steves points out, "the majority of 'bad weather' comes with broken spells of brightness". The key is to dress appropriately and take the right gear, paying close attention to the old adage, popularly attributed to fell walker Alfred Wainwright, that there's no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing. 

The hike starts and ends at Hawes End Landing Stage on Derwentwater. The route ascends quickly up Skelgill Bank, with a short flatter section before heading up to the summit. The trail is mostly firm, with a few more rocky sections that may require a scramble. The route down goes past Hawes Gate, a small pine copse, and the abandoned mine at Brandelhow Bay. The final section of the walk runs along the lakeshore under cover of trees.

Walking isn't the only attraction of the Lake District, and Steves has a few further recommendations for anyone taking on the Cat Bells climb. For starters, he waxes lyrical about the joy of visiting a local pub after a long walk, "part of the magic of travel in Britain". The Swinside Inn is a great option, about a mile from Hawes End Landing Stage, a wonderful old family-run pub with a wood-beamed interior that is warm, cozy, and inviting. A little further away, Keswick is packed with great pubs, from the quirky Craft Baa to the CAMRA-affiliated Wainwright.

Keswick itself is a dream, an enchanting northern English market town filled with excellent restaurants and a rich cultural life. The Keswick Museum and Art Gallery takes visitors on a journey through the history of the town as well as showcasing some of the fabulous local artists, while the charming Alhambra cinema is a beautifully preserved gem which has delighted audiences since 1914. 

It's also a great idea to keep an eye on the festivals happening when you plan to visit, as Keswick boasts a wonderful events program year-round. From the Keswick Agricultural Show and the incredible fell running races in summer to the Victorian Christmas Fayre and the Christmas markets, there's always something fun to enjoy.