Greece's One-Of-A-Kind, Butterfly-Shaped Island Offers Old-School Charm Without The Crowds
Wandering thin cobblestone streets lined with whitewashed houses as the setting sun eases closer to azure waves and casts a golden glow over everything, a vacation to the islands of Greece offers a dreamy escape. The serene beaches, postcard-worthy villages, and warm, crystalline water are quite the draw. There are a lot of islands, so choosing the right one could make or break your trip.
They offer something for every type of vacationer, from family fun to gastronomic adventures to epic parties — there are even ways to visit Greece on a budget. But the international fame brings large crowds and has some locals, including the mayor of Santorini, concerned about over-tourism. So if a relaxing Aegean summer vacation is what you're looking for, the island of Astypalea is the perfect fit. This low-profile island is largely untouched by mass tourism, making it perfect for a tranquil escape.
Astypalea is known as "The Butterfly of the Aegean" due to its unique form. The island consists of two wing-shaped land masses: Mesa Nisi, the more populated eastern wing, and Exo Nisi, the western wing. A thin isthmus connects the two. It is part of the Dodecanese island chain and is located between the islands of Kos and Amorgos. It's also jut a short flight from Athens, so getting to the island and enjoying the laid-back atmosphere, small villages, and unforgettable beaches is quite convenient.
Astypalea boasts old-school charm without the crowds
The central hub and capital of the island, Chora, was built on a hill and has beautiful sea views with every turn. The town of cubic, whitewashed houses with blue windows, renowned windmills, and steep, winding alleys, all lead up to the Querini Castle, named after the noble Venetian family who ruled the island starting in the early 1200s. Views that were once for strategic defense are now the main attraction and offer panoramic vistas of the island below, and the crystalline Aegean water stretching into the distance.
The beaches close to Chora are more developed with sun-beds, colorful umbrellas, and many restaurants and hotels, like Livadi Beach, which just under 2 miles away. Surrounding the main hubs are more secluded beaches and many smaller coves and bays. The best way to explore the coastline of dramatic cliffs and tranquil beaches is on a boat tour. Hire a skipper, stop at a few remote beaches, do some snorkeling in the pristine water, and enjoy a nice shrimp pasta lunch under the sun. The different colored stalactites and stalagmites of Drakos Cave are also worth a visit.
The evening could be spent at a seaside cafe or back in Chora. The main square is lined with cafes and restaurants offering visitors and locals fresh seafood, classic Greek dishes, and regional specialties. A vacation in the Greek islands is like stepping into a postcard. Days are spent soaking in the sun and cooling off in turquoise water. Warm evenings are about wandering down narrow streets with sun-kissed skin as you stumble upon the perfect taverna — a restaurant must for a deliciously authentic experience.
Getting to Astypalea, the Butterfly of the Aegean
The airport of Astypalea (JTY) is at the center of the island, on the thin strip between the "wings." As a small airport, it only has flights to and from Athens, and the frequency of itineraries changes depending on the season. A quick flight is the easiest way to get to Astypalea, but there are other, more Aegean options like the ferry services.
Direct ferries go from Athens to Astypalea around three times a week. But they make multiple stops along the way and can take over nine hours. One of the many joys when visiting the Aegean, however, is island hopping. For example, you could fly to Rhodes and then ferry to Astypalea. Depending on the season, it connects to many other islands in the Dodecanese and the Cyclades island groups as well. Popular ferry routes to Astypalea are from Amorgos, Kalymnos, and Naxos. So you could break up the trip by stopping on one of these larger islands for a night and getting to know more of the Aegean.
No matter if you arrive by plane or ease past small boats on clear water and into the main port of Astypalea Town — known as Chora, the capital — the island is easy to navigate. Many beaches and attractions are within walking distance. But for destinations a bit further away, there are public buses, water taxis, car rentals, and even an eco-friendly fleet of minibuses called Astybus. Visitors can download the Astymove app and arrange the pick-up and drop-off points. Chora has most of the tourist accommodations on the island. The villages of Livadi and Pera Gialos also have hotels available. From luxury villas to small boutique rooms, there's a place to stay for everyone.