Europe's Overlooked Train Ride Through The Dinaric Alps Is More About Beauty Than Speed

An unsung railway route linking Serbia and Montenegro is widely regarded as one of the most spectacular train journeys in Europe. The direct Belgrade to Bar line, also known as the Montenegro Express, traverses 296 miles across the scenic Dinaric Alps, connecting Belgrade with the auspiciously named seaport of Bar in just about 11 hours, where crystal-clear beaches and a refreshing glass of local pomegranate wine await.

The Montenegro Express is a feat of engineering, originally opened in 1976 to boost connections within the former Yugoslavia. The Dinaric Alps, also known as Dinarides, present a formidable natural barrier that runs parallel to the Adriatic coast from northeastern Italy to Albania. The journey crosses 254 tunnels and 435 bridges, including one of the world's highest railway bridges standing at 660 feet above the Mala Rijeka riverbed. 

Despite a reputation for delays, extended stops, and taking longer than the intended duration, this under-the-radar railway experience enjoys a near-mythical appeal. This route is much more than a budget and eco-friendly means of transportation, in that it combines engineering marvels and unspoiled landscapes with a sense of adventure that is harder to find in other well-trodden routes.

The scenery along the Montenegro Express route transitions from the pastoral to the outright dramatic. From the rolling farmland and combed vineyards of the Valjevo and Užice wine regions to the glassy rivers in Serbia, across the rugged mountain range, all the way to the shimmering Adriatic Sea. Every season has its charm, and in the fall the landscape is set alight by the colors of the foliage. 

There is a day train that operates only in the summer, second class only, and a night sleeper train runs year-round. Travelers departing southbound from Belgrade recommend the overnight option in order to get the best look at the stunning scenery, setting your alarm for dawn to admire the Montenegro segment of the journey between Bijelo Polje and Bar, including a beautiful glimpse of Lake Skadar. Favor the right-hand side on the southbound train, or left-hand side if northbound, for the best views.

Once you arrive at your destination, you can continue your explorations further up the Montenegro coast, where you will be met by a port town that feels like a hidden Riviera, or a relaxed underrated seaside gem that offers a picture-perfect vacation.

As you prepare to embark on this unique train adventure, approach the platform with a flexible mindset. Remember that this journey is more about beauty than speed, so expect to encounter delays and treat train schedules as more of an educated estimate than a hard-set metric. In 2023, Belgrade inaugurated its new Beograd Centar station to the highest European rail travel standards. Stock up on snacks and water at the station, bring a novel, your headphones, and your playlist or audiobook, because you are in for the long haul. The Montenegro Express carriages are equipped with Wi-Fi and air conditioning, although performance of these modern conveniences may vary. If you are taking the day train, there will be a change of trains at Bijelo Polje, near the Montenegro border, meaning that will be the end of said air conditioning and Wi-Fi on the Montenegrin stretch.

A one-way ticket goes from just over $27 for a seat in second class to $40 in first class, while a sleeper berth, depending on capacity, ranges from $9 per person in a six-person compartment to $56 for single occupancy. While in Europe, you are usually encouraged to buy your train ticket in advance, though in this case tickets are not available online, so you will need to pick them up at the station. Get them a few days in advance if you can, particularly if you use your Eurail pass to book this journey, as it requires you to have a reservation showing your assigned seat or berth.