A Massive Immersive Art Exhibit In Mexico Offers A Stunning Experience Of Heaven On Earth

Mexico is a country full of surreal wonders. From mystical underground rivers filled with caves and crystals to deserts where alien lights fill the sky and radios and watches don't work, it's a country filled with magic, mystery, and extraordinary places to visit. Where else in the world can you find otherworldly lakes painted in bright bubblegum pink, islands where departed spirits return once a year to visit their families, or photogenic bright-blue swimming holes reputed to be portals to the underworld? Exploring Mexico guarantees exciting, surprising, and even deliciously spooky experiences around every corner.

Mexican culture embraces these surreal, singular, even eerie vibes and runs with them. But one of the most bizarre, otherworldly spots in the country was actually designed and built by a Brit. Hidden in the jungles of San Luis Potosi, Las Pozas is an extraordinary piece of monumental art, one of the largest and least well-known surrealist constructions of the 20th century, created by an English poet named Edward James.

Las Pozas is a remote spot, located just outside the small town of Xilitla in San Luis Potosi state. Perched high in the Sierra Gorda reserve, a branch of the Sierra Madre Oriental range, it's surrounded by lush, subtropical rainforest, towering peaks, plunging valleys, and huge cascades. It's around 280 miles north of Mexico City, a journey that takes about seven hours by car. The nearest international airport, Queretaro, is about 150 miles away and served by flights from hubs across the US, and can be reached in four-and-a-half hours.

Edward James was a passionate fan and patron of the Surrealist movement, sponsoring famous artists like Salvador Dali and René Magritte. In the mid-20th century, he decided he wanted to create a Surrealist 'Garden of Eden', and found himself drawn to the esoteric atmosphere of Mexico. Mexico and England share a surprising Surrealist art connection, with artists like Leonora Carrington and Bridget Bate Tichenor crossing the Atlantic to live and work. In fact, it was Tichenor who gave James the idea of creating his Eden in Mexico.

Las Pozas is hard to pin down. Part enormous artwork, part sculpture park, part ruined town, part sci-fi/fantasy movie set, it is a series of confusing concrete structures, ornate architecture, staircases that lead nowhere, and open, empty rooms. Nature is a huge part of the space, with bamboo groves, liana vines, and crashing waterfalls, as much a part of the monument as the ruins themselves. It feels like wandering through the remains of some ancient, alien civilization or discovering a lost city in the middle of the jungle.

It's hard to know exactly what James had planned for Las Pozas. He lived there for a significant period, either staying with his architect and friend, Plutarco Gastelum, in a mock-Gothic cement castle he had built for his family, or in his own house made of concrete, bamboo, and brick. He set up his own zoo of exotic animals and grew orchids, but most of the creations seem to have no purpose beyond being an expression of Surrealism. Construction began in 1949 and continued until 1984, when James died and work ceased.

Due to its spectacularly remote location, a visit to Las Pozas almost inevitably means an overnight stay. This is, to be honest, a treat, as Xilitla is a charming town and San Luis Potosi one of Mexico's most underrated states. One of the best places to stay is the Posada el Castillo, the former home of architect Plutarco Gastelum, now an excellent hotel with fascinating Surrealist architecture. The Villa Ecoturística La Huerta de Xilitla is another great option, just outside of town and extremely close to Las Pozas, with a selection of wonderful cabins and treehouses by the river.

A stay in Xilitla also gives you the chance to discover the unique cuisine of San Luis Potosi. The most impressive dish to try is zacahuil, a Huasteca specialty in the form of a gargantuan tamale filled with meat, chilies, and spices, often measuring up to a meter long! Caldo xóchitl, a traditional soup, and enchiladas potosinas (stuffed tortillas dipped in guajillo chile sauce) are also on almost every menu.

Beyond the ethereal monuments of Las Pozas, there are plenty of other things to enjoy in Xilitla. The small town boasts two excellent museums, one dedicated to the work of Leonora Carrington, the other exploring the vision of Edward James in more detail. It's also a fabulous place for nature lovers to stay, with an array of hiking trails, waterfalls, mountain peaks, and caves to enjoy.